Junction Moama is geographically in New South Wales but it’s a Victorian restaurant in almost every way.
It's set within the grounds of the Moama Bowling Club and to reach it you pass through a scene typical of a country RSL before entering into the alternate world of Junction – all recycled bricks, joinery and leather. It opened in 2015 and is a fascinating model – one that sees a large local institution attempt to move away from the standard club fare into more refined regional dining.
Only three hours from the Melbourne CBD, head chef Michael Giarrusso (formerly of Gary Mehigan’s Fenix), sources all but a bit of his produce from Victoria. Olive oil is made locally at Cockatoo Grove, and his Wagyu beef is from Cohuna, a small town about half an hour away. Giarrusso’s signature zucchini flower dish, which is served with Persian feta and romesco sauce, is grown in Echuca. Only a few items, such as Berkshire pork from Bundarra, come from the New South Wales side.
Junction’s wine and cocktail selection is sourced from Healesville, Grampians, King Valley and Geelong, the wine list is heavy on local names such as Innocent Bystander and Farr Rising. The Murray River Martini uses Melbourne Gin Company gin, Maidenii dry vermouth, Pennyweight fino sherry and apricot bitters.