Hellenic Republic Brighton

Tuesday
11:30am - 10:00pm
25/27 Church Street Brighton 3186

Features

good for groups
licensed
takes reservations
notable chef
notable vegetarian options
Greek

Hellenic Republic Brighton is the third in George Calombaris's chain of accessible and hearty tavernas; joining locations in Brunswick East and Kew.

Inspired by its beachy locale, the ceiling and columns of Hellenic Republic Brighton are festooned with thick lashes of ecru-coloured marine rope. That's complimented by the thatched wooden chairs – painted in licks of blue and white – which sit next to to marbled tables. The brick walls are painted over in white, letting the sun wash into the restaurant through large arches and wall-to-ceiling windows.

Calombaris and executive chef Travis McAuley have composed a more health-focused menu, inspired by the Mediterannean diet, which stipulates a 4:1 ratio of vegetables to meat. Lamb chops and shoulders still come in half-kilo orders, but they're joined by more vegetarian-friendly options than ever. There's roasted cauliflower, fried zucchini, flame-grilled tomato and, of course, the Cypriot grain salad.

The dessert menu is less health-conscious; with highlights including the sweet and flaky baklava and the loukoumades (Greek doughnuts), which are drizzled in honey.

Ouzo-drinkers of all experience levels will appreciate the drinks list. There are varieties without aniseed, subtler tasting options for first-timers and punch-packing selections for experts of the Greek spirit. Wine comes predominantly from Greece too, with plenty of red and white varietals to choose from.