The Black Sorrows, Midnight Oil, AC/DC and Steely Dan are on the stereo. Three-child families camp at tables littered with stray pizza toppings. And with no apparent irony, salads come in those dinky faux-wood bowls that pubs used to serve chips in.

Welcome to Harley and Rose, the expectation-defying, sort-of pizzeria from Josh Murphy, a chef who spent years at working at upmarket spots Cumulus Inc, the Builders Arms and Moon Under Water. (Co-founder Rory Cowcher, a chef with a similar CV, has since left the business.)

But this place is not about chef-y, fashionable food. There are creatively topped pizzas, heaps of snacks and salads and a banging wine list. If you want to pick something in person, duck into the attached bottle-o, a weird little room behind the bar – one you’ll think you’re not allowed in. You are, and it’s filled with bottles from established producers and trendy low-interventionists such as Lucy Margaux.