From restaurateur and hospitality legend, Angie Giannakodakis, Elyros is a piece of Crete in Camberwell.
The corner building welcomes copious amounts of light into its long, sleek interior. The room is split into a main dining area and a wine bar, and there is also a function room upstairs.
Cretan cuisine forgoes stodgy ingredients for dishes that are light, produce-driven and natural.
This includes chunky octopus pieces stuffed with rice, pistachio and currants; apaki (vinegared and smoked pork), a lush spring vegetable medley and a plate of dolmades like fat, green cigars, swimming in olive oil. There is a whole fish, slit and de-boned in front.
The cuisine is essentially seasonal, the way Cretans have been doing for years –naturally without a second thought. Traditionally, if it’s not in season, they don’t have it.
The wine list by sommelier Thomas Eveno resembles a novella, but is an unusual collection of wines generally from lesser-known, smaller wineries around the world. If you’re only having one drink, try its special Cretan cocktail: a blend of honey-infused spirit, rakomelo, with thyme, Greek sparkling wine and bitters.
The wine and meze bar is open Tuesday to Saturday, from noon until late. The dining room is open for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday from 5.30pm. On Sundays there is a $45 family style set menu for lunch from noon until 3pm.