Bistro Gitan couldn’t be more aptly named. French for Gypsy; its menu wanders a little like its namesake, allowing some freedom, with hints of Spanish and Italian influences within a modern French structure. Gitan is a collaboration between restaurateur Jacques Reymond and his children Edouard, Antoine and Nathalie.

The wine list – built by Nathalie and Edouard – includes choices from Spain, France, Italy, Australia and New Zealand, which can be bought by the glass, the pichet (250ml) or the carafe (500ml), as well as the bottle. “It was something we saw in Paris and really liked and wanted to do here.”

Bistro Gitan is an interesting evolution in the interpretation of the modern French bistro, with a very strong Melbourne sensibility. It is also chance to experience Reymond's dining in an approachable setting.