The door to Bar Margaux is plain and just says “MGX”, but when it opens you’re met with a vibrant buzz of music and chatter. The space is designed to evoke a late-night, New York-inspired French bistro. Whether you’re arriving at 5pm to start your night or finishing up way after dark, the room won’t feel too different.

The menu is unashamedly French and all about the classics such as steak tartare, escargot (snails in lots of garlic and Pernod butter), and salmon rillettes. The burger here comes with two Wagyu patties, bacon, organic cheese, and a bordelaise sauce (bone marrow, shallots, port and a lot of pepper) on a milk-brioche bun. Desserts are also traditionally French, with fromage, tarte mousse au chocolat, and a soufflé du jour so puffy you’ll get almost as much pleasure watching the ice-cream sink into the cloud as you will eating it.

From 10pm to midnight (and 5pm to 7pm) a Golden Hour supper menu kicks in, which might include a burger, frites and tap beer for $29, and the short “beggars banquet” menu with two glasses of premium Champagne included.

Margaux’s cocktails lean toward the classics, plus you can get a “petit” (half serve) Martini or Manhattan for $14. The wine list offers a good mix of French drops and locally made French varietals, with almost everything available by the glass.