Head 80 floors up at the Ritz-Carlton to find Atria, a sky-high fine-diner delivering lesser-known seafood, top-quality steaks and a classic yet refined wine list.

Executive chef Michael Greenlaw (ex-Vue De Monde) developed Atria’s concept and menu, which feels a bit like Rockpool in the sky, with added texture. Which is to say, an à la carte menu that encourages cold seafood to start, followed by the best-quality steak money can buy (Icon, O’Connor and Blackmore) cooked on a woodfired grill.

The texture mostly comes in the form of vegetables: snacky artichoke cigars, a butternut pumpkin and turnip terrine entree, a main-sized serve of wood-grilled lion’s mane mushrooms. Another interesting dish sees a fragrant pho-like wallaby broth poured over raw wallaby slices, braised saltbush and pinches of foraged herbs, such as native river mint. (And don’t sleep on dessert.)

Greenlaw, a hobby spearfisher and free diver, also has a passion for lesser-known fish and seafood. He wants diners at Atria to forgo familiar, over-fished species such as whiting, flathead and snapper, and embrace the likes of Victorian longsnout boarfish, silver trevally and grass whiting, which might appear in a daily crudo with white soy and olive oil.

The wine list likes to show guests around – from Portugal to Austria and right across Australia. It doesn’t try to collect every back vintage from every grand cru. Classic leaning and organised by varietal, it’s focused while still providing by-the-bottle options – from $80 to $16,000.

Upon arrival, though, a cocktail feels like a necessity. Across eight signature cocktails, you’ll find native ingredients such as lemon myrtle and pepperberry. Pick your fave, then lean back and take in the spectacular view.

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Updated: September 27th, 2023

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