It’s a leap of faith to choose gelato without seeing it first. This anxiety is settled once you know that Cristino Vedovato and Fabrizio Locatelli are behind Joylati on Chapel Street. The couple ran a gelateria for 15 years in Piedmont, northern Italy, before moving to Melbourne in 2015.

The Glati is stored in pozetti, covered wells kept in the refrigerated counter. Because this gelati uses fresh fruit, organic milk and raw organic sugar, it’s the best way to preserve its texture and flavour.

There are up to 26 flavours at a time. Classic options include nocciola (hazelnut), cassata siciliana (ricotta and candied fruits) and amarena (black cherry). There is also a pumpkin flavour that Vedovato recommends combining with a chocolate-based flavour. Vegan options include sorbets of pistachio, almond or Calabrian liquorice.

Studio Y (the design studio behind Black Pearl, Boilermaker House has fit out the space. There are long tables that invite customers to eat in. A wall sculpture of a chocolate waterfall is suspended in motion behind the counter. Nearby there are two taps that are used to fill cones with liquid chocolate, under a chocolate-coloured ceiling.