Melbourne is embracing the trend of restaurants opening spin-off bars. There’s something romantic about grabbing a drink at one spot, then strolling over for a meal at another. Think Gimlet’s Apollo Inn, Scopri’s Bar Olo and France-Soir’s Le Splendide. Now, Gigi enters the fray. It’s just next to restaurateur Jason M Jones and interior designer Brahman Perera’s well-loved brasserie Entrecote. This wine bar is the 32nd venue under Jones’ belt – he began his journey at the age of 17, with Jason’s Restaurant.

The drinking-friendly menu is a playful mashup of vintage Australiana and classic French food. Party pies come filled with beef bourguignon, footy franks are rebranded “petit franks” and the prawn “cocktail’ette” comes with Marie Rose sauce mousseline. Straighter dishes include caviar rosti with crème fraîche; a tuna tartare tartlet with Espelette pepper; a Happy Chicken toasty; and chocolate mousse with Chantilly cream.

On the wine list, find gems like Champagne Suenen, Tolpuddle chardonnay from Tasmania, and Tenimenti d’Alessandro syrah from Tuscany. When it comes to cocktails, there’s an Espresso Martini with chocolate truffle, brandied cherries and coconut madeleine, and the Gigi, made with elderflower, sweet pea and gin.

The hidden upper-level space is a 60-seat salon, gallery and outdoor terrace, with sweeping views of neighbouring Grattan Park. It’s all adorned with Persian rugs, crystal chandeliers, velvet banquettes, and walls hand-painted by Melissa Macfarlane – meshing high-society Paris with the exuberant ’80s.