Like neighbouring South Yarra, Prahran seems to move at two speeds.

By day, pedestrian-friendly Greville Street and the adjoining Grattan Gardens have a cloistered, village-like feel that only Yarraville can match. Residents take their time over coffee or grocery shopping at Prahran Market and there are relatively few offices to bump up the pace.

The eastern end is even quieter. Beyond Williams Road, the streets are lined with well-maintained weatherboard cottages; Victorian and Edwardian terrace houses; and substantial parks such as Victoria Gardens and Orrong Reserve.

On weeknights, pubs such as the Mount Erica, College Lawn and Flying Duck draw a civilised crowd for dinner. On busier Chapel Street, fixtures such as Electric Ladyland attract a younger, rowdier demographic.

This slight party atmosphere gets turned up to 11 on weekends. Apart from the CBD itself, Prahran has more nightclubs than anywhere else in the city. Chief among them are One Six One with its flashing disco dance floor, and of course, Revolver, Melbourne’s most notorious club. Between midday Friday and 5am Monday, it only shuts for five hours. Visit the downstairs fruit shop mid-morning and you’ll be joined by at least a few pale, disoriented-looking clubbers who’ve left in search of an energising banana.