Dakota is a seafood-centric diner in a double-storey building overlooking Port Melbourne beach and – when it’s docked – the Spirit of Tasmania. It’s by first-time operators Sonia and George Brewty, who recruited Kate Peat – of Northcote’s European wine bar Oh Loretta – to consult on the conception and execution of the project.

The kitchen is run by chef David Green, who spent 14 years at Dayleford’s renowned Lake House before coming bayside.

Much of Dakota’s seafood is sourced locally, including scallops and sea urchin from Hobsons Bay and mussels from Port Arlington. This local focus extends beyond seafood, though, with Green and his team foraging everything from native saltbush across the road to mushrooms deep in the Otways.

The result is a menu that’s inventive and elegant. Find roasted Venus Bay clams with kelp butter and green-tomato chutney; glazed Skipton eel with cauliflower puree, dark sesame and pickled flower buds; and charred octopus with macadamia tahini and preserved lemon.

A showstopper is the whole-roasted Port Phillip Bay snapper, flavoured with lemongrass, glazed in garum and finished with pickled summer vegetables.

Larger mains are punctuated with side dishes such as whole, hot-smoked cauliflower with za’atar and olive puree, and charred baby gem lettuce with buttermilk and cured yolk.

To finish, there’s whisky-glazed burnt Basque cheesecake, and apple cake with caramel and clotted cream.

The bright, largely white-walled space (previously Mr Lawrence) has lofty ceilings, light timbers and blue hues (including a tentacle-y mural) throughout, inspired by its bayside location. There’s a grand 16-person dining table and more intimate tables for couples.