It’s only a few floors up, but the Panama Dining Room feels miles from Smith Street. The vast loft is furnished with a hodgepodge of tables, lounges, bar stools and a three-quarter size pool table.

Huge arched windows provide views of Fitzroy, Collingwood, even the CBD. The decor itself is stylish yet simple, letting the view speak for itself.

This place is ideal for a wine with friends (the wine list is extensive), a quiet beer, or and a game of pool on a weeknight. On weekends, expect to battle your way to the bar – this place can get busy.

Chef Ayhan Erkoc has serious pedigree. Under his eye the Euro-leaning menu swings from chicken liver parfait and saganaki to pappardelle and pork belly with mushrooms and taleggio. But as befits the bar/dining concept, much of the menu is made up of small, snacky bites.

Panama doesn't offer a degustation as such, but you could just about craft one yourself if it tickled your fancy.