Holmes Hall is a comfortable neighbourhood watering hole at the former site of Russo’s – a supermarket, deli and bottle shop that served Moonee Ponds for 50 years. A sign for Russo’s is still visible on the facade. And you’ll find touches of its long life everywhere: exposed brick walls, original timber beams and speckled concrete floors.

Yet the 500-square-metre Holmes Hall has some modern touches. There's a sleek, green-tiled bar in the front and a generously sized beer garden out back. To the side is a more intimate area with dim lighting, cosy booths and pinball machines (Jurassic Park and The Munsters themed).

The staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and will gladly take you through the 20 or so beers on tap. The selection comes from breweries like Mountain Goat, Wayward and Deeds, plus exclusive limited-edition collabs.

Wines are all-Aussie and mainly Victorian, while the cocktail list leans on spirits made with native ingredients. Macadamia-and-wattleseed liqueur from Cape Byron Distillery lends hints of coffee and cacao to the otherwise classic Old Fashioned, and there might be another cocktail that blends Mountain Goat’s Hopped Gin and Marionette Curacao with oranges from Mildura.

The food menu is more ambitious than a regular pub or brewery's but sits at a similar price point. You might order duck breast with potato gratin, chargrilled Thai sticky chicken, or salmon terrine for mains. There's also a variety of snacks and sides (think oysters, buffalo wings and patatas bravas) perfect to go alongside a drink or two.