Sushi On is an eight-seat omakase diner by South Korean-born chef JangYong Hyun – who served in the army before moving to Japan to hone his sushi craft. He then moved to Melbourne, working at Komeyui and Kisumé before striking out on his own, after 20 years in the industry.

With only one sitting per night, Hyun takes diners through 23 ever-changing, mostly one-bite courses. You might start with an oyster, move onto nigiri, progress to maki, and finish the savoury journey with soup. Additional courses depend on market availability – they might be Kumamoto Wagyu nigiri or sea urchin gunkan. With a focus on balance, Hyun selects fish with varying flavours, fattiness and textures, with some nights progressing through 18 different kinds of fish. The meal might end with a palate-cleansing sorbet or granita and then a small chocolate petit four.

Inside it's all clean lines and light colours, with vertical wooden slats across the window for privacy, while you perch on one of the eight velvet-backed bar stools sitting at the blond timber bar.