Melbourne established its pizza credentials long ago. Toto’s, our first pizzeria, opened on Lygon Street in 1961. Although Neapolitan-style pizza – woodfired, crisp at the edges, pliant in the middle – has come to dominate our restaurants since, a new generation has being doing some tinkering. The results are interesting – it’s now easy to find pizzas that go toe-to-toe with the best Neapolitan interpretations, despite being cooked in electric ovens or using something other than the revered San Marzano tomato. And as much as we love staunchly traditional pizzas, it’s hard to beat the excitement of tasting something new and totally original to Melbourne.

Cook 80 of Australia’s best Italian dishes – including two pizzas from Melbourne’s own Italian Artisans – at home with The Broadsheet Italian Cookbook. Available now at shop.broadsheet.com.au.