Melbourne Institutions

Updated 10 months ago

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Even the most successful operators tend to refresh their business every now and then. From superficial renovations to completely new concepts, it’s a rare restaurateur who doesn’t feel the need to change things up.

That’s what makes the venues on this list so impressive. Many have sailed past their 50th anniversary on the same foundations they started with. Some have never changed what they do, and the oldest has been running since 1891.

As a group, they’ve weathered recessions, gentrification, rising rents and fluctuating tastes. We think that’s worth celebrating.

  • Although the menu changes often at this neighbourhood restaurant, regulars keep coming back for the beautiful dining room, old-school Italian hospitality and extensive wine list.

  • This personable institution has been around since 1995 and retains a huge base of regular customers who love its classic, consistent menu.

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  • Originally started in 1928. Taken over by the Grossis in 1999.

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  • A pre- and post-theatre favourite since 1995.

  • Another Italian stalwart, established in 1988.

  • Fine Chinese since 1975.

  • Even a catastrophic fire couldn't keep this 1989 kid down.

  • Noisy. No menus. Affordable. It's been this way since 1977.

  • Vlado Gregurek founded this uncompromising steakhouse in 1964. Now his son Michael runs it.

  • Lebanese classics since 1979.

  • Melbourne's first wine bar, opened in 1935.

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  • Melbourne's original burger joint, established in 1939.

  • This one arrived in 1945, right on the heels of Andrew's.

  • The family has been making cannoli since 1956.

  • Italian comfort food since 1954.

  • Started life as a milkbar in 1941; evolved into a wholesaler in the '70s.

  • Started cooking souvlakis in 1978. Still does it 24/7.

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  • One of Melbourne's original laneway bars, founded in 1997.

  • Once known as La Perla Nera ("The Black Pearl"), then Tamari's. Became Tiamo in 1977.

  • An Italian grocer established in 1953.

  • Steak frites since 1986.

  • Okay, it's pretty twee. But it's also been there since 1891.

  • Born in 1947, as a place for waiters to unwind after work.

  • Founded in 1986, by two blokes named Mario.

  • Opened in 1988; still a benchmark for food and service.

  • A pillar of the Middle Eastern community since 1992.

  • Since 1998, this south-side restaurant has become a seafood institution. The unassuming bayside restaurant offers mussels, oysters, garlic king prawns, grilled snapper, chilli crabs and, of course, it's own steaming namesake.

  • This Brunswick Street institution is one of Australia’s oldest Afghan restaurants. Adored by locals and tourists alike, the veggo- and vegan-friendly spot is one of Fitzroy’s most essential dining experiences.

  • This Barkly Street icon has stood for over four decades. And after a brief Covid-enforced closure, it's in new hands and is better than ever. Head here for meatball subs, thickshakes and vegan treats made in-house.

  • This Coburg cake shop has been baking cakes and piping cannoli since 1965. Visit for those, and the huose *cartocci*: doughy yet light Italian doughnuts coated in sugar and filled with a fluffy custard-and-ricotta cream.

  • Practice has made perfect at this Melbourne institution. It’s been serving exquisite fish since the year 2000, paired with attentive old-school service and a wide-ranging wine list filled with interesting bottles.

  • Around since 1998, this is the king of laksa in Melbourne. Find classics like Hainanese chicken rice and char kway teow, alongside aromatic curry laksas laden with seafood, roasted duck, chicken and more.

  • This iconic bakery has served Eastern European cakes and pastries the same way since 1934. Try its cheesecake (which follows a 100-year-old Polish recipe), stick around for a coffee and soak up the frozen-in-time interiors.