Sushi is less a food than it is a highly codified artform. There are dozens of subtle variables in every piece, including the types of rice and vinegar used; the wrapping material; the rolling or stacking method; the variety of fish and the way it's cut. It's no wonder it can take decades to become a sushi master.

These days there's a handful of these people slicing around Melbourne. Whether you're into classic tuna nigiri or unagi (eel) rolled up maki-style, these are the spots to taste their years of devoted practice.