In Melbourne, gelato is more prevalent than ice-cream (learn the difference between the two here) due to so many Italians moving here after World War II. But strangely enough, it was hard to find real gelato as recently as ten years ago. Most shops were still using cheap pastes produced in factories, rather than making their gelato from scratch.
All the spots below are committed to doing things the right way. Hint: look for pozzetti, the lidded, refrigerated pots which protect fragile gelato from oxidisation. Any shop with a glass case full of perky mounds has almost certainly given its gelato the equivalent of a boob job.
One last thing: if you’re looking to compare the skills of two different shops, order a scoop of pistachio. It’s the industry’s universal benchmark.