In a corner of the Station Hotel there’s a full-sized illustration of a cow that delineates every one of its possible cuts. It represents the Station’s sole focus: to respect meat, and cook it with delicious consistency.

From the outside, The Station seems like a classic pub. Inside, it’s a warmly lit French steakhouse replete with wooden furnishings and fleur-de-lis wallpaper. It’s a natural fit for classically trained head chef Tim Fowler, whose menu places a strong emphasis on provenance.

Most steaks come from Black Angus cows, although the 250-gram Wagyu and Holstein cross is a menu mainstay. The scotch and eye fillets are also popular. Outside of steak, plenty of other main courses are offered, including fish and chips and pappardelle bolognese. There’s also a concise selection of dessert and cheeses.

Behind the bar, beers on tap include Furphy, Hawthorn and selections from White Rabbit. As a steak restaurant, the wine list skews unsurprisingly towards bold reds. Bestselling drops include New Zealand varietals and a shiraz and malbec blend from Wild Duck Creek