Just when you thought Flinders Lane couldn’t get any tastier, Papa Goose has blossomed on the site formerly occupied by The Chophouse on Duckboard Lane.
Chef Neale White’s creation is a linear yet expansive space that has been thoughtfully laid out with a good view of the open kitchen and the bustling lane. It’s bolstered by two smart private dining rooms and a great sibling up the stairs aptly named the Loose Goose, which is a stylish long bar for those seeking great liquid refreshment.
Neale’s pedigree has been honed overseas with highlights including a stint with Gordon Ramsey and Marcus Wareing at their London dining landmark Aubergine, and the executive role at The Saint (London, not St Kilda). His valuable experience has led to a menu that says volumes of the distilled knowledge used to put together one very tasty selection of dishes.
The food approach is simply wonderful. A one-eyed dedication to sustainable local produce cooked in a fashion which echoes French and broader European themes, deployed with traditional methods that are bolstered by sensible molecular techniques. The results speak for themselves in a very un-fussy way, like the twice cooked quail with puy lentils, radicchio, saffron quince and pomegranate reduction, or the pan roasted snapper with smoked bacon, mussels, shallots, fois gras and cannellini beans.
Every detail of the menu has been scrutinised in a most delicious way from the grill offerings to the dynamic cheese accompaniments, all of which are fully supported by a strong and balanced wine list which doesn’t skip a beat in offering varietals and choice from the world’s best regions.
91-93 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
(03) 9663 2800
Tue-Fri lunch from midday
Mon-Sat dinner from 5.30pm
Loose Goose Bar