Semi-Permanent is all in the name. Opened in September, it’s a short and sweet wine bar operation, open for 14 weeks (until 24 December).

Sommeliers Liz Carey and Paul Guiney, who have between them worked at restaurants such as Movida, The Town Mouse and David’s Thompson’s Nahm, are running the show here in the space on Smith Street that was originally Boire and then Lee Ho Fook.

It’s really more a bar than a restaurant, a casual setting for drinking good wine and good food with friends around the round oak tables that still exist from the original owner. The strong wine list is varied, with about 40 wines, many of them local. There’s also some sake.

The food by chef Tanya Bertino is simple and rustic, to be shared and eaten with wine. A menu scrawled up on the blackboard includes small dishes of fried sardines, sea bream cured in sake, ginger and green chili, bone marrow on toast and baby cos with radish and tarragon. There’s cheese by weight and a couple of desserts too.

There’s no fanfare here, but all the right details have been considered by this team. It’s unassuming, easy to enjoy and exactly the kind of informal local wine bar you want. Drop by while you can, before it becomes Victor Liong's new restaurant, Goldfish, in 2016.

Semi-Permanent closes on December 24.