Fiona Sheeran and Domenic Zanellini took over this Carlton mainstay in May 2016. The changes they have made to the award-winning bar are subtle, but significant.

Drawing from their experience as owners of Carlton cafes Haymarket Place and Briscola Espresso, as well as CBD restaurant Sarti, Sheeran and Zanellini refocused the venue to have broader appeal.

The wine list is a mainstream offering of 14 wines, which are all affordable; Punt Road sparkling is $12, and a 2014 Onannon Pinot maxes out the list at $20.

The food is by Appetite for Excellence runner-up, and former Bistro Guillaume chef Aaron Starling. The menu consists of solid bistro fare, such as roasted chicken with charred leek and a grape reduction, and steak tartare with quail egg and potato crisps. There’s also a snacky selection that includes a toasted sandwich of morcilla, whipped mustard cream and cheese, served on brioche bread and pan-fried in pork fat.