Brunswick’s Albert St Food & Wine is run by chef Dayan Hartill-Law, who honed his craft in the kitchens of Heston Blumenthal at Dinner in London and Peter Gilmore at Quay in Sydney.

Hartill-Law has focused on Victorian produce, sourcing ingredients such as Mount Zero olives, Western Plains pork and game from Savour & Grace.

The gourmet pizzas (roast port, speck and smoked mozzarella) are a standout, as is the 63-degree egg with mushrooms, chorizo and Banyuls vinegar if you’re after something lighter.

The service is friendly but unobtrusive. It is overseen by general manager Oliver Gibson, who came up through Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall and Neil Perry’s Rosetta.

A tight wine list features a mix of French (Provence), Italian (Veneto) and some local favourites by the glass, as well as extensive options if you’re after a bottle. There is Brunswick Bitter on tap plus some thoughtful options for the designated driver, including a watermelonade.

The full wine list is also available to takeaway if you’re after the perfect drop to make your next home-cooked meal really special.