Tom Sarafian, one of the most beloved chefs on the Melbourne food scene, only has two more months before his hotly anticipated restaurant Zareh opens on Smith Street, Collingwood. He’s making the most of the calm, and enjoying the Melbourne hospo scene, before opening. We took five minutes with the chef, and Heat superfan, to find out where (and what) he’s eating in Melbourne these days.
What’s your go-to spot for breakfast?
El Columpio. I love Mexican food and it has some of the best breakfasts in the world! A breakfast here on the weekends might mean a soup with tripe, hominy and fried tortillas, or chilaquiles and hibiscus aqua fresca, or one of my all-time favourite drinks: horchata – a sweet rice milk with cinnamon. What a way to start the day! And you should always finish a meal at El Columpio with the flan, no matter what time of day it is – it’s to die for.
How about lunch on the go?
Ca Com. It’s simply the best banh mi I’ve ever had and we are so lucky to have this world-class sandwich in Melbourne. I try to get something different whenever we visit, but it’s hard to go past the jungle sausage. Don’t leave without a jar of Thi [Le]’s crisp chilli oil, it’s incredible.
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SIGN UPWhere do you go for Armenian food?
Grandma’s house. Summertime is the best to visit, when her grape leaves are abundant, and we eat dolma in the backyard. Close by in Mulgrave is the AGBU [Armenian General Benevolent Union], and if you visit one of the open days on Sundays, you’ll be treated to khorovats (Armenian barbeque).
Where can you find your favourite dessert in town?
Znoud [El-Sit] at Afiouni Sweets and Pastries in Campbellfield is the King of Lebanese sweets. My favourite is the Znoud. Filo pastry is wrapped around freshly made ashta [a fresh, rich cream with a cheesy texture, aka kashta or qishta], fried then soaked in rose and orange blossom syrup, [pair it] with a Lebanese coffee and you’re in heaven.
What Melbourne venue do you think you’ve visited the most?
Jim’s Greek Tavern. It’s not only one of the best restaurants in Melbourne, but hands down the best experience for a large group. No menu, no fuss and BYO beers and wines make for the best fun!
Place everyone needs to go?
Free to Feed. It’s such a beautiful space run by the loviest people. The cooks cook with nothing but love, and the team makes you feel like you’re having a meal in one of their homes. If you can make it to one of their cooking classes they are also fantastic!
What’s your pick for the most underrated restaurant in Melbourne?
Gray and Gray. There’s nothing else like the food here, menus are full of beautiful and interesting takes on Georgian cuisine seasoned with spices and pickles that Boris [Portnoy] has brought back from recent trips to Tbilisi. I’ve had some of the most inspiring meals ever here. Save room for the khachapuri and honey cake, which is pretty much impossible, but a beautiful struggle nonetheless. And drink something you haven’t tried before, I’ve never had a wine I didn’t love at Gray and Gray.
What’s your favourite ice-cream or gelato shop?
Luther’s Scoops, which has recently opened up shop in Thornbury. The brown butter cheesecake is crazy good. And so is the almond caramel. The shop runs beautiful fruit specials like nectarine and fig leaf.
Favourite bakery?
All Are Welcome has always been my favourite. Since living in Northcote, most days start here with coffee and sometimes a pastry, we will always have a loaf of beautiful bread at home. Summertime means beautiful viennoiserie with perfect stone fruits.
But if I’m even remotely close to Brunswick or Caulfield North, I’ll drop into Wildlife or Baker Bleu – my favourites away from home.
What’s your favourite bar?
Tropicana Juice Bar! The Mango Colada (made with a “secret recipe” from the Phillipines) is my new favourite. Kick on to Caretaker’s afterwards and try to hustle a spot at the bar in between the Pitt & Giblins speakers, where I stay until someone kicks me out.
What do you do when you’re hungover?
Order too much food at A1 Brunswick. I like to feast on a beautiful healthy home-style mezze spread to make me feel revived. Hummus with lamb and fried nuts, fatteh, ful, za’atar manoush, cheese pie with lots of chilli sauce. If that doesn’t fix everything, head to Afiouni for a kunefe-filled kaak, put on the heat and fall asleep on the couch. You will be ok!
Bucket list restaurant?
Chae. It looks so special. Can someone please get me a booking?! I also really want to get out to Sunshine for a koobideh at Kababi, Hamed Allahyari’s new spot. And I’m excited for Habibi Chicken in Preston to open soon.
What’s the best place to eat after watching Michael Mann’s Heat?
Dainty! The only thing hotter than the greatest movie of all time is a meal at Dainty. Or sometimes I’ll head to Tina’s Noodle Kitchen in Preston for a spicy soup.