Where Chefs Eat: Curtis Stone Loves This Latin American Restaurant in Collingwood

Melbourne-raised chef Curtis Stone is currently based in Los Angeles, where he runs Michelin-starred restaurants Gwen and Maude. But he makes it back to Australia multiple times a year.

When he’s not working, Stone takes time to enjoy the local food and drink scene. “I’m lucky because whenever I come to Melbourne I get to eat out,” he says. “And Melbourne’s always got something new and something old you want to relive. It’s such a special place to dine.”

He tells us about the restaurant he thinks is a must-visit, and why everyone needs to try a South Melbourne Market dim sim at least once.

What’s a memorable meal you’ve had in Melbourne lately?
I went with my mum to Pincho Disco and we had a beautiful lunch. It’s sort of different – you don’t see a lot of South American, Central American, Latin American restaurants [in Melbourne]. The head chef [Diego Cardenas] is Colombian, and he cooks really beautiful food.

It’s an interesting mix that I’d never quite seen, actually. There are a few chefs from Argentina and another one from Peru, so there was some Peruvian-style ceviche and crudos. We had a green aguachile which was really good – sharp and bitey. We also had a tuna crudo with a puffed tapioca crisp, and a bit of slow-cooked lamb shoulder that was bloody delicious. It just sort of fell off the bone.

And on past trips?
I had a really good meal the last time I was here at Osteria Ilaria. The hand-made pastas were fabulous. It’s not trying to be anything it’s not. It’s an Italian-style, pasta-focused menu, fabulous flavours and good, honest cooking.

What’s something you miss when you’re in the US?
I think the bread that we have in Australia is incredible. We have a great bakery culture and in the States they don’t necessarily.

Where do you tell people to go if they’re visiting Melbourne?
Attica is one, because I think it really shows food that you can’t get anywhere else. I think that’s a must-do. [Chef and owner] Ben Shewry is one of my favourite chefs in the world. He’s such a talent. I know he’s been spoken about a lot, but he’s such a talented cook and flies our flag really well.

I really love the food you can get at our markets, so I’ll often send people to the Prahran Market , or to the South Melbourne Market to get a dim sim. If you haven’t had one of those, you have to try it. It’s a pretty unique thing – I’ve never seen one in Southeast Asia, and I’ve certainly never seen one in America. And Gary [of G McBean Family Butcher ], he’s an incredible butcher at the Prahran Market.

What would you like to see happen in the Melbourne food and drink world in the next few years?
It’s a funny way to describe Melbourne, but I feel like it’s a really competitive city. I don't know why. Maybe it’s because of our love of sport. I just think Melbourne tries really hard, but in a good way. I think when we do something, we really latch onto it, and a lot of what Australia hangs it hat on really started in Melbourne. Like our coffee culture – I really feel that started in Melbourne. And I think the food in Melbourne is still very independent, it’s very chef-driven. I don’t really know where it’s going to go next. But that’s kind of the fun of it, right?