After years working as head chef at restaurants including Longsong, Rice Paper Scissors and Hochi Mama, Alex Kaew finally opened her own place with her partner Sara Pimsamarn last year – Charlong in St Kilda, which was named one of the best new restaurants of 2024.
Kaew grew up in Chanthaburi in eastern Thailand with her grandmother, who ran a food stall where Kaew would often help. Her grandmother’s recipes, crafted around charcoal and wok cooking, were a major influence when designing the menu for Charlong, which is a portmanteau of “charcoal” and “prolong”. But Kaew has also folded in her love of combining Thai and Western ingredients and techniques. We caught up with Kaew to find out where (and what) she’s eating in Melbourne these days.
What’s your go-to for breakfast?
My go-to spot is Three Bags Full in Richmond, a cafe I’ve been visiting since 2012. The smashed avocado is my favourite dish there, its flavour and freshness are exceptional, complemented by the cosy, casual atmosphere, friendly staff, and perfectly brewed coffee.
Stay in the know with our free newsletter. The latest restaurants, must-see exhibitions, style trends, travel spots and more – curated by those who know.
SIGN UPWhat about lunch?
I love taking friends or my partner to Crystal Jade in Chinatown for lunch. My personal favourite is the soft, golden salted-duck-egg custard bun. Every bite is a perfect balance of sweet and salty, and when you tear it in half, the warm lava-like filling is meant to be shared.
Where do you eat in St Kilda?
I go to Saigon Street Eats on Chapel Street, which serves Vietnamese street food. The beef pho, topped with stir-fried beef, takes me back to my time in Vietnam. It’s incredibly satisfying, warming and full of flavour.
What’s your favourite Thai restaurant?
Kaoyum on Toorak Road is a hidden gem I often visit. The chef serves creative Thai dishes with bold flavours. I particularly love the lunch options, where you can customise your meal with rice, curry, salad and a fried egg all in one bowl. The caramelised braised pork hock is the best I’ve had outside of Thailand – tender and flavourful, it melts in your mouth with the perfect chili vinegar dipping sauce.
Where do you suggest people visiting the city go?
I always recommend Cumulus to friends and family visiting Melbourne. It’s the first place I want to dine at when I return after traveling abroad. The tuna tartare with goat curd is a perfect pairing – fresh, flavourful, and light. The combination of creamy cheese, fresh tuna, and a touch of mint and peas makes every bite feel refreshing.
What’s the best place for when you’re with a big group?
I love organising group dinners at Korean barbeque buffet BBQ King on King Street. The highlight is grilling meat at the table while sharing laughs (and a bottle of soju) with friends.
What Melbourne restaurant do you think is the most underrated?
Being Thai, I’m always on the lookout for a place that feels like home. Ratee Thai in Exchange Food Court on Little Collins Street is my go-to. The stir-fried chicken with dried red curry is a comforting dish at an affordable price that I could eat every day.
What’s the best place for a late-night feed?
Supper Inn in Chinatown never disappoints. It’s always busy, but the food is well worth the wait. My go-to order is prawn congee, pipis with house-made XO sauce, and Chinese doughnuts. The XO sauce is outstanding – it’s rich and flavourful and I find myself scraping the plate clean.
What’s your favourite bakery?
One of my favourites is Prologue on Russell Street. They bake fresh orange canelés daily. When paired with a cup of coffee, this treat is the perfect start to the day. I often make it a daily ritual to enjoy one, and it’s little moments like this that kickstart my mornings with joy.
What’s your favourite ice-cream or gelato spot?
Gelato Messina. The pistachio gelato is particularly delicious, with its rich, nutty flavour. I always order it in a cone, which brings back nostalgic memories of my childhood.
Bucket list restaurant?
I’ve always loved the smoky flavour of charcoal-cooked food. This year, my bucket list included visiting charcoal-focused restaurants, and I’ve already checked off two: Embla on Russell Street in Melbourne and Ester in Sydney. The next two on my list are Agnes in Brisbane and Firedoor in Sydney. I can’t wait to experience them.