Where Chefs Eat: Audrey Shaw of Carnation Canteen’s Pick for the Best Baguettes Outside of Paris

When Audrey Shaw’s Fitzroy restaurant Carnation Canteen opened earlier this year it quickly made a mark as a hotspot for Melbourne’s food and design community.

It makes sense: the chef is a former architect. She worked with Ruth Rogers at The River Cafe in London for four months and spent a year cooking with Brigette Hafner at Tedesca Osteria on the Mornington Peninsula.

But before Carnation Canteen opened Shaw was relatively unknown. But she’s quickly made a name for herself thanks to her daily changing menu – which she handwrites in mechanical pencil. It includes dishes like charcoal grilled King George whiting, and Gruyere and Dutch cream potatoes on toast. We caught up with Shaw to find out where (and what) she’s been eating in Melbourne lately.

What’s your go-to spot for breakfast?
When I’m working I don’t do breakfast (it’s usually an espresso and a handful of Hunted+Gathered chocolate). But on my mornings off I love to go to Thanh Ha 2 for wonton soups and spring rolls.

What about a drink and snacks?
Gerald’s Bar for a Mezcal Margarita and some crisps. Or, if it’s late, Kafeneion for a Martini and the keftedes.

What do you recommend for a first date?
Somewhere you won’t be spotted. But for a hot date, the original Cafe Di Stasio bar. It was my husband’s and my go-to. But now we are lucky we have Di Stasio pizzeria in Carlton. We sit in the courtyard and eat the salamino pizza. Ask Andrea to make you an Espresso Martini to finish.

Where’s your favourite dessert?
It’s not sweet, but we order burgers and champagne from Gimlet. My husband and I had one last Friday. It was so good we split a third for dessert with a Vodka Martini. If the mood strikes, the chocolate mousse with olive oil and salt at Public Wine Shop is divine.

What’s the most underrated venue in Melbourne right now?
Kenzan. It’s not underrated but under frequented. I like to sit at the sushi bar to share a Suntory Premium Malt’s beer and grilled salted kingfish collar.

What’s your favourite ice-cream or gelato shop
Pistachio or hazelnut at Spring Street Grocer’s Gelateria Primavera. But as an activity I like a scoop of the dark chocolate from Pidapipo while walking around Readings in Carlton.

What’s your favourite bakery?
In Melbourne it is Loafer Bread. But I adore Iggy’s in Bronte [in Sydney]. The baguettes at Bread Club are the best I’ve had outside of Paris.

Where did you go for your last birthday?
The terrace at [architect] Marcello Donati’s, eating BLTs over the sink.

What overseas restaurant do you wish was in Melbourne?
La Latteria in Milan. It’s now closed, but I would consider it the perfect restaurant.

Bucket list restaurant?
Chez Panisse.