We Visit Legendary Chef Tony Tan To Talk Lunar New Year Food and Traditions

Lunar New Year started on Wednesday January 29. For many in Asia and within the Asian diaspora, this means the start of just over two weeks of celebrations, many of which are centred around food.

As an American-born Chinese person now living in Australia, I’ve found solace and identity in these – in my case, Chinese New Year – traditions and have discovered parallels that resonate across cultures.

I met legendary chef Tony Tan a few years back and we made fast friends. Tan made a name for himself cooking at Tatler’s Cafe in Sydney from 1983, and later hosted SBS’s The Food Lovers’ Guide to Australia in the 1990s. Last year, he had a big moment when he released his second cookbook Tony Tan’s Asian Cooking Class.

We both have an obvious obsession with food but, more importantly, I forged a strong connection with Tony as he told me his stories about growing up as a Malaysian Chinese person and spoke of his experiences making a new life in Australia.

My father was a US military officer with an American Midwest and Swedish background. By the time I was 20, I had lived in 15 different time zones across three continents and my mother, originally from Hong Kong, recognised that constant military reassignments could be unsettling and threaten our sense of identity.

She ensured my sister and I maintained a solid foundation and sense of belonging through understanding our cultural roots and heritage. Chinese New Year celebrations and preparations served as an important anchor in my family, helping us feel a sense of connection and belonging wherever we went. Even my father adopted many of the traditions as his own.

I visited Tony at his home in Trentham where he runs his own cooking school. We discussed what Tony cooks for Lunar New Year, why he thinks chefs should learn the symbolism behind the Lunar New Year dishes they make and where to celebrate in Melbourne.

Anderson: Tony, how do you see food as central to Lunar New Year celebrations?
Tan: Food is the essence of Lunar New Year. It’s a universal language that transcends geographical boundaries, narrating stories of heritage and belonging. Each dish we share is a thread in the fabric of our collective histories, resonating with anyone who cherishes the warmth of tradition and family. And each dish is symbolic and filled with meaning.

The fish, for instance, symbolises prosperity, mirroring similar beliefs in other cultures about abundance and fortune. Dumplings, shaped like gold ingots, are not just a staple in Asian cuisine but also echo the universal desire for abundance and security. Long noodles represent a long life. These culinary symbols are global in their essence, speaking a language of hope and aspiration that everyone understands.

Anderson: How does celebrating Lunar New Year in Australia influence your festivities?
Tan: Celebrating here, I blend the traditional with my own culinary journey. This won’t be a surprise to many, but I generally cook my own new year feast. My menu is a reflection of my heritage and my experiences in Australia’s multicultural environment. The menu will mostly be Chinese incorporating some Vietnamese Lunar New Year [Tet] flavours like banh chung [a glutinous rice cake], but it might come with a nice Australian wine pairing if I’m up for it.

Anderson: Could you share a Lunar New Year dish that holds personal significance to you?
Tan: Yee sang [also known as yusheng, a prosperity toss salad common within Chinese communities in Malaysia and Singapore] is a dish close to my heart. Its communal aspect – where everyone gathers to toss the salad – symbolises unity and prosperity.

Anderson: How does your Chinese Malaysian background influence your Lunar New Year menu?
Tan: Malaysian cuisine is a fusion – much like the country itself. Our Lunar New Year dishes blend Chinese traditions with local influences, creating something unique yet familiar. I’ll be celebrating with some nyonya pineapple rolls. While this isn’t traditionally Chinese, it is traditional within my Chinese Malaysian culture. This fusion is a reminder of the global nature of food – how it adapts and thrives, embracing and celebrating diversity. The spirit of the holiday is connection with family and loved ones. It’s a phenomenon seen in cuisines worldwide, where migration and history shape culinary landscapes.

Anderson: How important is food to you in maintaining cultural traditions in a diaspora?
Tan: In a diaspora, food becomes a lifeline to our heritage. It’s a tangible piece of our past that we bring into our new lives, a way of holding on to our identity while navigating different cultures. It’s a phenomenon seen globally – how food becomes a vessel for memories, stories, and a sense of belonging.

Anderson: What advice do you offer to young chefs exploring Lunar New Year dishes?
Tan: Learn the stories behind the dishes. Embrace the cultural richness, then infuse it with your own experiences and culinary flair. Cooking is a bridge between cultures and understanding its history is crucial to creating food that honours tradition while celebrating diversity and new innovative approaches.

Anderson: For those of us looking to immerse ourselves fully in the Lunar New Year festivities through food, could you recommend where to eat and what specific dishes to seek out?
Tan: Lunar New Year is deeply rooted in family gatherings and the joys of shared meals. We call this the reunion dinner, which is typically organised for the Lunar New Year’s Eve.

Starting the celebration in your own kitchen is a wonderful way to connect with the tradition. I encourage families to try their hand at making dumplings together. It's not just about crafting the perfect dumpling but about the stories, laughter and bonding that happen along the way.

For those looking to eat out, Flower Drum in Melbourne is an exemplary choice. It’s known for its exquisite Cantonese cuisine and it perfectly captures the festivity and culinary excellence of Lunar New Year. Following that, exploring local Chinese restaurants that offer special Lunar New Year menus can help you celebrate. Make sure to conclude your meal with some sweet rice cakes or nian gao – they symbolise a wish for a higher year ahead.

This article was originally published on February 8, 2024. It was updated on January 30, 2025.