Via Porta Goes All-In on Sourdough at New Northcote Bakery

For the Cosentino family, good food has always been synonymous with gathering around the table. That philosophy has shaped the family’s Ivanhoe cafe Lucci, the Via Porta deli in Mont Albert, and Via Porta Bakehouses in Hawthorn and Northcote, which opened in June.

“Our grandparents were very simple people, but they really appreciated good quality food,” says co-owner Simon Cosentino, who runs the business with siblings Ryan, Jonathan and Sarah Cosentino. “Everything centred around sharing a meal. That’s probably the greatest lesson we’ve carried into what we do today.”

Unlike the Hawthorn bakery, which specialises in pastries and viennoiserie, the new Northcote bakehouse starts “another chapter of Via Porta”, says Simon, with a focus on naturally fermented sourdough. 

The team worked with Michael James of Hot Listed Urbanstead to develop its sourdough program, which currently includes eight varieties of naturally fermented sourdough. “Bread is so simple, but so complex at the same time,” says Simon. “It takes patience and a lot of trial and error.” 

Now they’ve got it down to a science. From 3am, bakers on-site shape dough, fire up the ovens and prepare loaves for Via Porta venues across Melbourne. Overnight-fermented doughs for loaf tins, including dark rye and multigrain sourdough, are baked first, followed by ciabatta and baguettes.

The sourdough shows up in pizzas, which come with a base of either Napoli or béchamel sauce and toppings including fennel, salami, marinated peppers, ’nduja, mozzarella and shaved parmesan for the red sauce, and sliced brown onion, bacon, mozzarella, egg and grated parmesan for the white. It also shows up in baguette sandwiches filled with ham, Swiss cheese, piccalilli and pickled zucchini, and toasties including one with broccoli, house-made kimchi, mozzarella and spicy mayonnaise. 

Pastries – including canelés, classic croissants and egg tarts – are all baked at the Hawthorn site and are available in Northcote, alongside coffee made with Code Black beans. And there’s a small dine-in breakfast menu of the usual cafe suspects such as avocado toast, kale and chicken salad, and fruit toast with ricotta and honey. Plus, you can also take home ready-made meals such as shepherd’s pie, and spinach and ricotta cannelloni. 

Housed in the old All Are Welcome space, also a former Christian Science reading room, the High Street site immediately appealed to the family for its natural light and secluded courtyard. “The natural orientation of the building is pretty amazing,” says Simon. “You walk in off High Street and have this lovely al fresco area that’s tucked away from the street.”

That sense of belonging sits at the heart of Via Porta. The name translates to “through the door”, reflecting the family’s goal to create spaces that feel like a home away from home. “We want people to come regularly, feel welcome and know they’re going to receive great service and quality.”

Via Porta Bakehouse Northcote
190 High Street, Northcote
(03) 8256 4866

Hours:
Mon to Thu 6.30am–3pm
Sat & Sun 7am–2pm

viaportabakehouse.com.au

@vpbakehouse