Melbourne’s Best New Sushi Counter Is in Glen Waverley

Glen Waverley has been a sushi and sashimi destination since 2003, when the late industry veteran Hiro Nishikura opened the highly regarded Shira Nui. New entry Toto Fish Bar gives it a run for its money. 

“With our restaurant, we wanted to bring a level of care into everyday Japanese food, serving omakase quality but at a reasonable price point,” says Johannes Handojo, who runs Toto with his wife Elysha. “We think of ourselves as affordable luxury, something in between fine dining and casual, with an element of fun.”

Customers can grab a cute handbasket and pick their own dry-aged fish from a refrigerated display. Each pack clearly shows the type of fish, price and weight (for example, tuna from Japan is $66 for 60 grams, while local kingfish is $24 for 90 grams). Selections get sliced and served as sashimi, or for another $18, in a set that includes rice, steamed egg custard, mini udon soup and sashimi salad.

“As part of enjoying the set, we encourage diners to get adventurous with building their own handrolls using nori sheets, and experimenting with a trio of house-made sauces: miso ponzu, ao shiso chimichurri and sesame,” Handojo says.     

Chef Yu Orita heads the sushi counter. Those close to the Australian omakase scene will recognise him as Yugen’s former omakase chef, or most recently as head sushi chef at Sokyo in Brisbane. He brings years of valuable experience, and a distinctive approach, to Toto. 

“I select and blend rice grains from Niigata, Hokkaido and Aomori to maintain a balance between moisture and stickiness, firmness and texture,” Orita says. “I dry-age my fish with saké, which kills bacteria, breaks down protein, and gives a floral aroma. This distinctive method I use originates from the Edo period and it is less commonly seen.” Orita is also precise with the vinegar he uses for the shari, blending exact amounts of Japanese rice vinegar with akazu, aged red vinegar. 

“My nigiri may look normal from the outside, but I like to hide additional flavours and textures in between the shari and neta,” he says. “I also score each piece of fish 15 to 20 times, so that the fish breaks down easily when chewed and can be finished together in the mouth.” The Chef’s Seasonal Nigiri ($58), an à la carte order, includes eight pieces of seasonal nigiri and two pieces of maki.

But while most customers will presumably come for the sushi, Toto Fish Bar does more. Snacky plates include chicken karaage, crispy uni (sea urchin) rice and Kentucky-style fried oysters with cured egg yolk and lime mayo. Then there’s various teishoku sets and chicken, Wagyu and miso-glazed salmon dons.

Drinkers are covered with a small selection of saké, plus highballs and sours featuring yuzu, hojicha and the Japanese probiotic drink Calpis. Unusually, there’s also a wide selection of the kind of Instagram-ready hot and cold matcha drinks dominating cafes at the moment: lattes, lemonades, things topped with foamy clouds. 

The restaurant is located directly opposite Syndal train station. “We’ve always wanted to open a restaurant,” Handojo says. “I’ve always respected the OG Shira Nui and wanted to add to the neighbourhood.”

Toto Fish Bar
7 Coleman Parade, Glen Waverley
No phone

Hours
Wed & Thu 5.30pm–9pm
Fri & Sat 12pm–2.30pm & 5.30pm–9pm
Sun 12pm–2.30pm

totofishbar.com.au