First Look: Tokyo’s Ginza Kagari Flies Its Chicken Ramen to the CBD

Long-time ramen heads will remember photos of the queues snaking down a one-person-wide alleyway beside the Ginza Apple Store in Tokyo. The lines were for Ginza Kagari, the shop that earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2016 and 2017 for its tori paitan ramen, a creamy, emulsified chicken broth resembling soy milk. 

Founded in 2013 by Makoto Iwata, Ginza Kagari stood out during the pork-heavy tonkotsu boom of the time, with a silky chicken broth that has since become a staple on many ramen shop menus. The broth draws on Iwata’s specialty in mizutaki – a refined chicken hotpot that demands patience, clarity and depth – and feels closer to French potage than street food.

For William Foo, the Adelaide-based owner of Ginza Kagari Australia, one bowl was enough.

“I first tried Ginza Kagari three years ago while travelling in Japan, and that bowl really stayed with me,” Foo says. “It wasn’t just rich, it was balanced and thoughtful. When I came back to Australia, I couldn’t stop thinking about it.”

Foo met with Iwata in 2024 to discuss bringing the brand to Australia, and found they were aligned. “We share the same mindset: quality, consistency and long-term brand integrity. It’s not about shortcuts,” Foo says. On Saturday February 14, he will open Australia’s first Kagari on Russell Street in the CBD, adding serious heft to the strip’s nickname, Ramen Street.

“Melbourne has an incredibly strong food culture, with an audience that appreciates thoughtful cuisine. We think Kagari complements the scene by providing another dimension: a high-quality elevated ramen that’s still grounded and enjoyable.”

Kagari’s signature soup base is still produced in Japan using soft mountain spring water and fresh chicken processed within 24 hours. It’s then shipped to Melbourne under strict quality control. “It’s not the easiest way to do things, but it was important that the experience here reflects what people enjoy in Japan,” Foo says. 

“The density, the emulsification, the mouthfeel – they must be consistent every day,” says Keisuke Iwata, Makoto’s son who is in Melbourne to help guide the kitchen team during the launch. “Even small changes affect the aroma and finish.”

The signature tori paitan anchors the offering. It’s topped with tender slices of chicken and a selection of seasonal vegetables arranged as meticulously as ikebana. “You won’t find bean sprouts or black fungus here, only quality seasonal local vegetables,” Foo says. Variations include a version finished with truffle sauce, a clear anchovy niboshi soup for something lighter, and a dry mazesoba (a brothless ramen) that uses thicker noodles. Spring onion oil, chilli powder, vinegar and black pepper are available for individual customisation. 

There’s also a final flourish. To extend the dish, you can order a bowl of rice topped with raw egg to mix through the remaining soup at the end of the bowl. Rounding out the menu, there’s Asahi on tap alongside highballs and sours. 

Ginza Kagari
256 Russell Street, Melbourne
03 7073 7699

Hours:
Daily 11am–9pm 

ginzakagari.com.au