Where Chefs Eat: Stephen Nairn Loves This Ham and Cheese Pinwheel

Scottish chef Stephen Nairn has worked at some of the world’s top restaurants including Hot-Listed Vue de Monde and New York’s Eleven Madison Park. As culinary director of LK Hospitality (Yugen Dining, Omnia, YTB), Nairn has also helped guide some of the best culinary talent in Melbourne including KyongHo Daniel Choi, who is currently competing in Milan in the S Pellegrino Young Chef Academy finals. We caught up with Nairn to find out where (and what) he’s been eating in Melbourne lately.

What’s your favourite bakery?
Butter Days Bakery. What they have created is fantastic and, knowing John [Demetrios]’s endless creativity, I can’t wait to see what’s next out of the oven. I’m a big fan of the ham and cheese pinwheel.

What’s your go-to breakfast spot?
Regulator Cafe in Highett. It’s superb. Amazing service always. The coffee game is serious and the food is delicious. I also love the chorizo scotch egg.

What’s the best place for a drink and snacks?
I love Tipo 00. It has the hustle and bustle but always sings out with flavour. I also love Auterra in Armadale. It has a serious wine list that you wouldn’t find in many other places and the snacks are delicious and creative. It’s a great little spot.

If someone asked for a date-night recommendation, what would you say?
O My. It’s one of Australia’s best restaurants. The Bertoncello Brothers should have their own TV show – the banter is second to none. Going to O My is an experience, not just a meal. Behind the banter you have a team of totally dedicated professionals at the top of its game blending all aspects of the culinary world. The team also runs its own farm and grows unique varieties of vegetables that are treated with precision and care. On my last meal I had probably the best drinks pairing I’ve ever had. O My is a whole lot of fun – perfect for a date.

Where do you go for special occasions?
From here on it’s Yiaga. I love restaurant design. How meticulous that restaurant has been designed and thought through is special. It’s far deeper than just aesthetics. Having eaten there once since it opened, I am confident that it will become one of Australia’s iconic restaurants.

What’s the best place to eat when you’re with a big group?
Jim’s Greek Tavern. It’s a pure celebration. I love the energy and it’s a great place to connect. You can’t replicate a place like Jim’s. It’s the kind of restaurant where no one is on their phones. It has an energy, suspense and proper character.

Where can you find your favourite dessert in Melbourne?
Hate to be biased, but I think my head chef at Omnia Evin Doherty’s apple tarte tatin is one of the best desserts in Melbourne. No shortcuts taken. I always get guests telling me that it was one of the best desserts they have ever eaten.

What’s the best place to eat as a solo diner?
I would sit on the bar on the left next to the kitchen at Zareh. It’s dinner and a show. If you love cooking, you will definitely learn a thing or two. It’s great watching a chef like Tom [Sarafian] operating on taste, touch and smell. It also has the best playlist I’ve ever heard in a restaurant. The lamb cutlets with Harissa are phenomenal. Still thinking about the quality and use of mace in that dish.

What’s the best place for a late-night feed?
I love Leonard’s House of Love. Great drinks and banging food including a really good burger. It also has a great outdoor area when the nights are a little warmer.

Where can you find the best bread in Melbourne?
Baker Bleu. It’s top drawer. It’s one thing to be able to produce high quality in small volumes open a few days a week, but a completely different level of skill to be able to operate seven days a week in multiple sites and to have that level of consistency. I rarely buy bread from anywhere else. My son, who is two, won’t eat any other bread. From the bagels to the country loaf to the tin loafs, the depth of flavour is exceptional.

What’s your bucket list restaurant?
Asador Etxebarri [in Spain]. From afar, I love everything about it. I have always loved the stories and philosophies. It’s a beautiful part of the world and I am sure the days before and after in that region would just be as special.