Where Chefs Eat: Shannon Martinez Chucks a U-ey for This Banh Mi

Like AFL or the 96 tram, Shannon Martinez is about as “Melbourne” as it gets. But the force of nature behind Smith & Daughters, one of Australia’s most influential restaurants, is also resilient like the city she calls home. Martinez has battled cancer, kept her plant-based businesses afloat in a declining market, and is candid about her relationship with vegan cuisine while not being vegan herself.

True to form, the punk-rock chef ain’t slowing down. This month, she opens a second Smith & Deli on Degraves Street in the CBD. It’s the first major project from the newly formed Tomorrow Food Group, which now encompasses her eateries and Made by Smith – a range of high-quality plant-based alternatives to meat and dairy products designed specifically for chefs. 

Ahead of the venue launch, we checked in with Martinez to find out where she’s been eating lately, and where she’s eaten forever.

Favourite bakery
“La Colmena at Prahran Market. This bakery makes me emotional. One bite of Cristina’s pastries transports me right back to my Spanish grandmother's kitchen table.”

Go-to breakfast
“I’m not a breakfast person at all. But on the random days I do wake up hungry, I like to go to Grain Asian Cafe in Box Hill. They offer super affordable Cantonese breakfast sets. I usually go for set B and choose the turnip cake, congee and coffee.”  

Favourite banh mi 
“There are so many good banh mi spots in Melbourne, but I can’t drive past Ca Com or Phuoc Thanh without stopping to get one. Ca Com’s fillings are elite. The Jungle sausage is my favourite. Phuoc Thanh’s bread is the best and I love their tofu banh mi.”

Favourite noodles
“Tina’s Noodle Kitchen in Preston. I’ve been going there for years and it’s perfect every time. I can never go past the pickled chilli broth. Great vegan options as well. My close second is Bowltiful for their hand pulled noodles.” 

Best bread
“I’m a continental bread kinda gal. I grew up eating it. So for me, it’s Casa Del Pane at the  Preston Market.” 

Best place to eat with a big group 
“My favourite place to take a large group of people is Sichuan House on Corrs Lane in the CBD. The portions are massive and the beers have long necks.”

Best place to eat as a solo diner
“Literally anywhere, restaurants love solo diners.”

Best place for a late-night feed 
“Seven Star Pocha, open until 2.30am. Nothing quite as good as spicy tteokbokki and kimchi jjigae after a few too many drinks.”

If you could bring back one Melbourne restaurant for a night...
“The Robert Burns Hotel on Smith Street. Back in the late ’90s it used to be a family staple and one of my favourite places. Simple Spanish cooking done really well in a pub.” 

Most visited restaurant
“Probably Dragon Hotpot. It’s easy, always seems to be open and the mala broth is delicious.”

Underrated gem 
“Hofbrauhaus! I honestly love this place so much. It’s such a fun vibe, the food is delicious, the portions are huge and the beer selection is fantastic.” 

Favourite regional restaurant 
“Chae of course! Two beautiful humans (and a dog) doing incredible things and giving Melburnians a very special look into the traditions of Korean cuisine.”

Smith & Deli at 16 Degraves Street is expected to open in June. Additional reporting by Audrey Payne.