First Look: A Pop-Up Power Couple Goes Permanent, With Saadi in Sunda’s Old Space

This week we’re adding Saadi to The Hot List, the definitive guide to Melbourne’s most essential food and drink experiences.

Saavni Krishnan and Sriram Aditya have spent years turning other people’s restaurants into their own, running their Indian pop-up at venues all over Melbourne. Just for one night. Sometimes a little longer. And last night, they did it again. But this time it’s different. This time, they’re turning the space that was once Sunda into Saadi. And they won’t be changing it back.

The pair are two of Melbourne’s most exciting chefs. You might know Krishnan from her time as sous-chef over at Manze. Or maybe you had the pleasure of eating at Gemini, in Coburg, while Aditya was its head chef. But the partners reached a new level of local renown when they started their Saadi pop-ups.

“The entire reason we started doing all the pop-ups was that we wanted to see if the food that we cook was something that people actually wanted to eat,” says Aditya. “And we approached every pop-up from the perspective of how it would lead to a restaurant of our own.”

The result was a string of pop-ups at some of the city’s best venues, including Arnold’s, Hope St Radio, Sleepy’s and Public Wine Shop. Those events, plus plenty of private gigs, earned Krishnan and Aditya – and Saadi – a dedicated following. One fan was Adipoetra Halim, owner of The Hotel Windsor, Antara, Aru – and the beloved, but now closed, Sunda.

“[Aditya] and me, we both said we should text him to ask if we could [do] a pop-up at the Windsor,” Krishnan says. “Then he asked if we wanted to take over Sunda, which was free, for a month and see how it goes.”

“So we did a residency at Sunda for the month of May, and it was great, and we extended again for June and July, so we decided to make it permanent.”

In recent years, Melbourne’s Indian restaurants have pushed into new realms of regional specificity. Venues like Toddy Shop are championing Kerala cuisine, while Helly Raichura’s Enter Via Laundry explores India’s diverse culinary heritage through rotating menus – past editions have focused on Mughlai, Parsi and Goan cuisines.

But the goal at Saadi is both more broad and more personal.

“Sav’s dad is from the south, and her mum’s from the north, but she grew up in Mumbai,” says Aditya. “Whereas I grew up pretty much all over India – so our food is the food we grew up eating, but it’s not strictly from one certain region.”

“We’re not sticking to any particular region or style – we’re trying to showcase everything.”

That means an inaugural menu featuring childhood favourites like kadhi pakora (a yoghurt curry served with vegetable fritters) and idli (steamed rice cakes). For more substantial mains, you’ll find grilled lamb brisket kebab and barbeque flathead. On Friday and Saturday evenings, Saadi will be offering a set menu, while the rest of the week’s services will have à la carte options, too. The plan is to change the menu each season. There’s also a separate, snacky bar menu, which will also change often.

If you’ve been to Sunda before, Saadi’s new digs will be immediately familiar. But even if the space came pre-furnished, it’s clear that the new tenants have already made it their own. And they’re turning it into their dream home.

“I’ve always cooked someone else’s menu – but the fact that we finally have something we can call our own is amazing,” says Aditya. “This is 100 per cent me and Sav on a plate, and having the freedom to be able to cook what we want.”

“We’re cooking food that I’ve always wanted to cook and eat, and serve,” Krishnan agrees. “And finally showing the world what we have to offer.”

The Hot List is proudly sponsored by Square.

Saadi
18 Punch Lane, Melbourne
03 9654 8190

Hours:
Wed & Thu 5.30pm–10pm
Fri & Sat midday–2pm; 5.30pm–10pm

saadimelbourne.com
@saadi_melbourne