First Look: Find Pét-Nats, Pickles and Polish Meatballs at Ruzia’s Wine in Caulfield North

Ravi Presser has always dreamed of opening a venue that celebrates his grandmother, Ruzia Presser.

Born into a Polish Jewish family in 1919, she survived World War II as one of “Schindler’s Jews” , later migrating to Australia and building a life here. Ravi, her youngest grandchild, was extremely close to Ruzia, who he says brought people together with her warmth, hospitality and love of food.

“She’d have all of her girlfriends over to play bridge, she would host, she was just that kind of gal,” says Ravi’s wife Lucy Presser, who does marketing for Freddy’s Pizza and Tommy’s Booze.

Two weeks ago, the couple opened Ruzia’s, a wine bar less than a minute’s walk from Caulfield Park. “This is about her. This is a place where you can bring your mates, the food’s really good, and everybody is welcome,” says Lucy. The couple hopes Ruzia’s will be meaningful to Caulfield North locals, many of whom are descendants of post-WWII Jewish European immigrants.

Designed to share, the menu draws on family recipes and traditional Polish foods such as pickles, sausages, smoked fish and cheeses. Plates are prepared by Ravi, who works behind a large central bar, creating an experience reminiscent of being in Ruzia’s kitchen.

Ravi began working for Andrew McConnell at age 19 and worked at Supernormal at Cumulus Inc before joining Fonda as one of two opening chefs. He later helped open Atico and Feast of Merit. But Ruzia’s is his first venue, and here, it’s all about homely dishes. Favourites include Grandma’s chicken meatballs in a tomato and mushroom sauce with kasha (buckwheat porridge), a dish Ruzia served at family gatherings. And Ruzia’s plate, which pairs Baker Bleu ’s rye and caraway bread with sliced cured pork neck, gravlax, pickled veggies and cheese.

For something sweet, there’s poached fruit with yoghurt that Ravi makes, as well as cakes the couple purchase from local Jewish bakeries and Basque cheesecake made by Ravi’s uncle.

Family members work on the floor, and Ravi’s neice’s father Joel Amos (founder of natural wine supplier Drnks ) curated the wine list. “It’s really important to us that we keep these family ties as strong as possible,” says Lucy. “Any other family members we can rope in, we will.”

There are also Polish vodkas meant to be served as shots, as well as Polish beers, limoncello and canned cocktails.

Ravi and Lucy renovated the former cafe, adding a custom-built Tasmanian oak banquette and a large timber bar. Out back is a smaller room with a communal dining table, plus an outdoor courtyard opening in summer. On the menus and front awning, you’ll see classic Polish cross-stitch motifs, and the walls are covered with vintage frames displaying photos of Ruzia.

Ruzia’s Wine
215 Balaclava Road, Caulfield North

Hours:
Wed to Fri 3.30pm–11pm
Sat & Sun midday–11pm

ruzias.com.au
@ruziaswine