Rosheen Kaul to Open a Chinese French Pop-Up Bistro in Armadale

Rosheen Kaul has published two cookbooks , collaborated with beauty brands, appeared on television and even made her own merch. But the former Etta head chef and Dinner by Heston alum says there’s still nothing like working in restaurants.

“A year of dabbling in all sorts of food-adjacent industries has only cemented my love for the kitchen, and for restaurant service,” she tells Broadsheet. “I don’t think anything I do can bring me the same immense satisfaction as cooking on a line does.”

Next month, she’ll open a French Chinese pop-up bistro at Armadale venue Zia Rina’s Cucina. Bistro Marigold will be open for long Sunday lunches and dinner service on Mondays from November 2 to 30. It will focus on “the kinship between two great culinary traditions,” with food that’s “grounded in technique and seasonality, through the lens of the Australian dining landscape.”

Kaul’s menu is a full-blown celebration of spring. The à la carte offering will include dishes such as a spring vegetable terrine with yuba (tofu skin) and okra in a pool of vinegary, green Sichuan peppercorn dressing; white asparagus and poached prawns in suprême sauce made with a Chinese superior stock; and a crisp-skinned pork trotter stuffed with chicken mousse in a cognac-spiked braised pork sauce. For dessert, there’ll be cherry blossom crème diplomat, jasmine-scented madeleines baked to order, and “Sour Patch Kid-esque” pâte de fruits to finish. “I love the idea that the dishes are composed, yet a little undone,” Kaul says.

Joining Kaul are former Etta sous chef Jake Mayhew and Osteria Ilaria head chef – and Kaul’s partner – Jett Alexander. Zia Rina’s Cucina co-owner Danny Natoli will oversee the wine offering.

“This concept of Australian ‘chinoiserie’ cuisine has been in my head for a long time,” Kaul says. “There’s been a movement of Asian chefs in Paris combining their heritage with classical training for some years now, with such an easy grace. I love simple cooking, but I also love the idea of taking on a truly challenging menu, forcing me to go away and sharpen up my skill set before I could achieve what I want.”

Bistro Marigold will run every Sunday and Monday in November. Bookings now open.

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