New Hire: Former Nomad Chef Liam Lee Brings Korean Flair to Ronin Omakase

Look behind the sushi counter at a top Japanese restaurant in Melbourne and you’re liable to find an accomplished Korean, like Matsu owner Hansol Lee or Sushi On founder JangYong Hyun. Yes – despite the two countries’ unpleasant history, the similarities and synergies between their cuisines is undeniable.

A Korean omakase, then, isn’t a huge deviation from the script. And at Little Collins restaurant Ronin, it could even be a step closer to tradition. Original chef Patrick Kwong, who founded the restaurant with his partner in 2024, grew up in Malaysia and plated up the likes of Hainanese fish rice, prawn nigiri with laksa butter, and an Italo-Japanese “tira-miso” dessert.

New chef Liam Lee, who’s clocked time at Nomad, Firebird and Studio Amaro, has brought an equally personal touch to the menu. Helpfully, one of his relatives runs a small Victorian farm specialising in Korean veggies – naturally, it’s come on as a supplier. Lee’s now pairing snapper with Yarra Valley caviar and Basque pil pil sauce (salt cod, garlic, olive oil). His guksu (noodles) float in a clear broth of dried scallops and Korean anchovy, plus fresh local uni (sea urchin). And a French-Korean yukhoe matches raw beef with egg yolk, gochujang and sliced nashi pear. Misugaru – a grain-based drink powder akin to Milo, sans chocolate – is reimagined as a panna cotta and paired with fermented persimmon and hazelnut.

Even the drinks list has been given a Korean overhaul, making Ronin almost like a new restaurant entirely. There’s Korean-made whiskies (a rarity in Melbourne) and some cocktails feature favi ade, a fruit-based vinegar made by Lee’s friend Sangsoo Kim of Hot Listed shop Gamja Hotteok. Here’s what Lee had to say about his new role.

How did you get your start in the industry?
I majored in sports at university back in Korea, and I worked as a lifeguard for a while. My first experience in hospitality came from a part‑time job at a Korean pub, where I worked both front and back of house. One of the kitchen aunties there made the best tteokbokki (spicy rice cake dish) in town, and watching her sparked my curiosity about cooking. After that, I served in the Korean military as a cook for about two years. When I completed my service, I went straight into working in restaurants.

How did you end up at Ronin? What was it about an omakase restaurant that appealed to you?
Before I met the owners, I had actually been preparing to open my own Korean omakase restaurant – I was hoping later this year or early next. Omakase has always been one of my dreams.

I took some time off and spent it with my family, and during that break one of my chef friends suggested I meet the owners of Ronin. We had an immediate connection. After two rounds of food tastings, we decided to shift the concept to Korean omakase.

I’ve worked in many open‑kitchen restaurants before, but omakase offers something different. It allows me to serve my food directly in front of guests, to see their reactions up close, what they enjoy, what resonates with them, and that immediate feedback helps me keep improving.

How would you define Korean-style omakase?
For me, Korean‑style omakase means respecting the traditional techniques I learnt from senior Korean chefs, while expressing them through Australian ingredients. I work closely with local suppliers to create dishes that feel authentic to Korean flavours but still suit the Melbourne palate.

Ronin is known for its slightly theatrical take on omakase. Is that something you’ll continue?
At some point, my culinary style naturally shifted toward creating a more comforting, palate‑focused dining experience rather than relying on showmanship. I still enjoy incorporating performance elements, but I keep them subtle.

Which dishes are you particularly excited about adding to the menu?
One is our galbi, a Korean‑style beef short rib that’s marinated in a traditional way and served with classic sides like kimchi, banchan and namul. The flavours stay true to Korean tradition, but the cooking technique blends in Western influence. We slow‑cook the short rib for 17 hours to achieve a tender, melt‑in‑your‑mouth texture, and then finish it over charcoal to bring in that deep, smoky flavour. It’s a dish that really represents the balance of Korean soul and modern technique that we aim for on our omakase menu.

Anything else you’d like to add?
Being recognised as one of the first Korean omakase in Melbourne feels challenging at times, but it also motivates me to keep pushing myself. I’m bringing everything I’ve learned throughout my career onto the plate, hoping to create a truly memorable Korean dining experience for our guests.

Ronin Omakase
445 Little Collins Street, Melbourne
No phone

Hours
Mon to Wed 12pm–3pm
Thu to Fri 12pm–3pm, 6pm–10pm
Sat 6pm–10pm

roninomakase.com