At the Old Press Club Site, New Indian Diner Elchi Walks the Line Between Classic and Contemporary
Words by Emily Holgate · Updated on 30 Aug 2023 · Published on 02 Jun 2022
Affectionately known as the “Curry Queen”, Manpreet Sekhon is the woman behind Indian restaurants Masti (in Fitzroy) and Eastern Spice (in Geelong). But now, the chef has made her mark on the CBD, breathing new life into the former home of The Press Club on Flinders Street with her new venture, Elchi. It offers a rotating, seasonal menu of Indian dishes from a number of regions.
“I always wanted a restaurant on Flinders Street,” Sekhon tells Broadsheet of Elchi, which translates to “ambassador”. “It’s a casual dining place, but the cuisine is both traditional and modernised.”
Expect flavours from the Punjab region of north-western India, where Sekhon was born, with a touch of contemporary flair. Her personal favourite is the extravagant 24-carat-gold chicken mussallam; it centres around a tender chicken leg cooked in garam masala and cashew paste, then served with a delicate gold leaf.
She also recommends another signature: crisp whole Amritsari fish, a whopping 2.5-kilo snapper made for sharing. Menu classics include “Masti-style” charcoaled butter chicken (a nod to the Fitzroy restaurant) and a fish curry originating from Kovalam, a small coastal town in India’s south. Traditional desserts are also on offer; try the apple jalebi – deep-fried, honey-covered apple rings soaked in fragrant spices.
“It’s a small menu because we will be changing it regularly and seasonally,” says Sekhon. “Whichever dishes we put on are what’s popular back home in India, with vegetarian and gluten-free options, too. We’ve covered every aspect.”
On the drinks front, the cocktail named for the restaurant is made with ruby port, Dark Matter rum, grapefruit and cardamom bitters, while the Pink City is a flowery mix of gin, hibiscus, pomegranate and lemon.
The intimate, 60-seat space retains most of The Press Club’s fixtures, including the curved leather booths and dramatic gold ceiling lights. “I didn’t change much,” Sekhon says. “The interior was just the perfect match to my food … it’s so beautiful and elegantly designed. I also wanted to pay homage to the heritage of Press Club.”
“When I opened Elchi, I really wanted people to try dishes they’ve never heard of before,” she adds. “People are loving it – there’s been really great feedback since we opened.”
Elchi
72 Flinders Street, Melbourne
(03) 9654 6717
Hours:
Wed to Sat 6pm–10.30pm
Sun 12pm–3pm, 6pm–10.30pm
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