There’s an obvious but very deliberate contrast between Nam Nguyen’s two restaurants.

GoodDays, which opened in 2016, is a clean-shaven Brunswick pho bar with a mid-century walnut-clad open kitchen. Good Nights, on the other hand, which opened a couple of months ago, has a five-o’clock shadow.

“It’s definitely more playful and fun,” says Nguyen, who moved to Melbourne from Adelaide in 2014 after selling his rice paper roll business, Soonta. “We didn’t want to use the stereotypes of making a Vietnamese restaurant, but there are more [Asian] elements here.”

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The concept of contrast runs throughout Good Nights. A purple-pink glow lights the 60-seat space, which is one part lively and kitsch – with cheap floral tablecloths, ’90s-style school chairs, blue padded booths and a rotating mirror ball – and one part refined thanks to a long granite marble bar, a modern open kitchen and clean white brick walls.

The menu hits varying notes, too. It’s a mix of off-centre Vietnamese share plates prepared with the same focus on ethical ingredients as at GoodDays.

Starters take the form of street snacks, such as spring rolls with tofu and shiitake; sourdough prawn toast with salted duck egg; and small, crisp banh khot, coconut and turmeric pancakes with scallop and prawns.

“Even though it might not look like your classic Vietnamese menu, everything draws back to a familiar taste,” says Nguyen.

Mains are even jazzier. Nguyen’s Roo Luc Lac is an Aussie play on the classic Vietnamese dish bo luc lac, but instead of beef, kangaroo fillet is wok-tossed with onion, shishito peppers, watercress, basil, and – another twist – potato chips inspired by the ones Nguyen’s grandma made for him as a kid. Barramundi in banana leaf is based on a classic Hanoi dish. Nguyen’s version involves dill oil, salmon roe, rice noodles, pickled cucumber and goji berries.

The main event is the Family Style portion of the menu. It includes DIY rice paper rolls with fillings ranging from grilled pork to betel leaf lamb, and a whole barbequed chicken served with chicken-fat rice, more potato chips, pickles and a gingery nuoc cham.

For simple soupy comfort Nguyen’s serving the same pho that’s available at GoodDays, including the multi-fungi vegan one the Brunswick spot became known for, and an organic beef version with a marrow-rich broth, Black Angus topside and brisket. Or try the congee with osso bucco and Chinese doughnuts.

There’s no dessert at Good Nights, but the cocktail list, overseen by co-owner Tom Hall, is a reason to stay seated. It’s very seasonal, changing every two weeks, but expect concoctions such as the gin and persimmon shrub with Ounce Gin Bold, from Adelaide, and Contratto Bianco vermouth. Or a play on the classic Vietnamese iced coffee made with cold brew from local cafe Franklin Windsor and a booze of your choice, plus a good slug of condensed milk.

Good Nights
12 Chapel Street, Windsor
(03) 9041 7404

Hours:
Wed & Thu 4pm–10pm
Fri & Sat 4pm–11pm

good-nights.com.au

This article first appeared on Broadsheet on June 4, 2019. Menu items may have changed since publication.