Now Open: Collingwood’s Jollygood Diner Marries the Melbourne Wine Bar With American Counter Culture

The Melbourne sandwich scene has exploded in recent years, and Raphael Exton-Pery is partly to blame. The former fine-dining chef was one of the first to jump on the takeaway trend during Melbourne’s lockdowns, selling sandwiches from Fitzroy wine bar Underwood as part of his Jollygood Sandwiches pop-ups.

This side hustle became a full-time commitment when Exton-Pery opened Fitzroy’s Jollygood Junior (originally called Jollygood Sandwiches) in 2021. The spot quickly became known for next-level sangas like the chicken with citrus herb mayo, cucumber and lettuce, or the New York-inspired deli number with mortadella, Calabrese salami, peppers, Swiss cheese and mayo.

At the tail end of last year, the chef launched a second venue, Jollygood Diner – a Collingwood joint that marries the classic American diner with the quintessential Melbourne wine bar.

“It’s a huge new offering on top of what people know as Jollygood,” Exton-Pery says. “In terms of the food, drinks and setting, you’re getting an entirely different experience. The things that carry over are the casual setting and an environment where everyone is welcome any time of the day.”

The something-for-everyone menu has approachable all-day-diner-style dishes with refined influences from Exton-Pery’s time in establishments such as Gimlet, Spensley’s and Little Andorra.

During the day, you can expect diner classics including buttermilk pancakes with maple-glazed bacon, build-your-own breakfast sandwiches and key lime pie alongside other pastries and a jumbo pretzel to snack on.

Throughout the afternoon and into the evening, opt for a cheeseburger, a New York deli sandwich or a fresh wedge salad that would feel at home at an upmarket wine bar.

The intention with the fit-out was to create a multi-faceted, inviting environment as well. A communal wood table anchors the space and encourages conversation, as does the long bar where you can watch the kitchen crew at work and chat with staff. If you want to get some work done, smaller tables and window seating run along one side, and classic diner booths with surf-green seating run along the other. Exton-Pery says the layout plays an important role in encouraging people from all walks of life to visit the venue.

“We want this to be a place where you can grab a coffee and do some work in the morning, swing by on your lunch break for a quick meal, celebrate a birthday or special occasion with friends in the evening and stop for a nightcap,” he says.

Drinks range from batch brew coffee through to beer on tap from fellow Collingwood locals at The Mill Brewery, as well as an ever-changing wine list with local reds, whites and orange drops, and even a few champagnes on offer. The drinks menu is all-day – whether you need a morning Bloody Mary or a late-night wine and a feed, Jollygood has your back.

Jollygood Diner
27A–29A Johnston Street, Collingwood
No phone

Hours:
Tues to Thurs 8am–5pm
Fri 8am–11.30pm
Sat 9am–11.30pm
Sun 9am–5pm

jollygoodmelbourne.com