Sushi trains aren’t usually associated with chefs like Victor Liong of Lee Ho Fook and restaurateurs like Con Christopoulos of Siglo, The European, City Wine Shop, and many other iconic Melbourne venues. But Bossa Nova Sushi isn’t your typical sushi train.

First, there’s the unconventional name. It pays homage to Brazil, which has one of the largest Japanese diaspora populations and hints at the venue’s classic soundtrack. More specifically, Christopoulos tells Broadsheet it nods to the vibrant Japanese restaurant culture he observed when holidaying in Sao Paulo.

Then there’s the food. Liong has developed a menu of plates that rotate – literally and figuratively. They’re priced between $4.50 and $12 and include unagi (freshwater eel), seared bonito, eggplant agebitashi (fried eggplant), Wagyu tri-tip tataki and skipjack tuna nigiri.

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There’s also an a la carte menu that includes A5 Wagyu steak, a kingfish collar shioyaki (salt grilled) with ponzu, and grilled Wagyu tongue with a yuzu relish. Liong will continue to be hands-on when it comes to menu development, but the kitchen will be largely led by former Lee Ho Fook chef de partie Justin Yong.

“In Japan, the entry-level quality of sushi trains is much higher compared to here, where most are in shopping centres and run as fast food. We were never going to do that,” says Christopoulos.

To drink, there are half bottles of Grand Krug, plus Martinis and the unofficial national drink of Brazil, the Caipirinha.

The sleek sushi train takes centre stage when you enter the Bourke Street venue (previously home to Christopoulos’s Self Preservation and the Kafeneion pop-up).

“You go in and the food is immediate. It’s quick, easy, and nourishing. But you’re always loved and respected. That’s the business model,” Christopoulos says of the vibrant venue, led by venue manager and former Izakaya Den co-owner Miyuki Nakahara. Christopoulos says Nakahara – who’s been in the industry for 40 years – is “a champion, a hospitality legend”.

Con’s daughter Claudia Christopoulos led the creative and operational development, while he oversaw the design. “Restaurants are already a beautiful product before you even begin. Walk into anyone’s kitchen, and if they’re cooking beautifully, it’s a lovely environment, regardless of its appearance.” But with stained-glass windows and reflective, textured walls, the decor at Bossa Nova is on the same level as the cooking.

Bossa Nova Sushi
70 Bourke Street, Melbourne
No phone

Hours:
Tue to Sat 11.30am–late

@bossanovasushi_train