Chefs Declan Carroll and Dean Stagno, along with sommelier Pierre-Marie Caillaud, have over 70 years of hospitality experience between them. The trio, who met while working at Rockpool, are behind new Albert Park venue Omen.

“It comes from our love of European [cuisine] fused with Australian produce,” Caillaud tells Broadsheet.

Nearly everything at Omen – including the Tasmanian oak bar that spans the length of the venue – was designed by the team. And Carroll and Stagno’s approach follows a similarly homegrown ethos; many components are made from scratch and the majority of ingredients are from Victoria.

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Small plates showcase involved techniques. Stagno says the duck croquettes take five days to make. First, the kitchen makes a stock, which the team then combines with tapioca flour to make a dough. The dough is then frozen, defrosted, grated, crumbed, rehydrated and finally used to batter a filling of duck legs rendered down over two days. The technique – which Stagno learned from UK chef Simon Rogan, a pioneer of the farm-to-fork movement – results in a texture that he likens to “tiny little shards of prawn crackers.”

But for larger dishes the chefs prefer to let the produce shine. About half the menu, including the eye fillet and the lamb ribs, is cooked on a Big Green Egg, a ceramic charcoal grill and smoker inspired by the kamado of ancient China.

Instead of a cheese board to finish, there’s a cheese dessert that pairs an apple tart with Stilton. “The thin pastry resembles the crisp element, the tarte tatin is kind of like chutney, and then you have your blue cheese,” says Carroll. There’s also a rhubarb cake and nostalgic raspberry jam-filled doughnuts.

The wine list is a reflection of Caillaud’s vast knowledge and includes bottles from his personal collection. There’s a strong focus on both European wines and European varietals produced in Australia. “I've been testing a lot of new and emerging winemakers from Victoria and Tasmania recently,” Caillaud says.

“I’m trying to get away from having all the classics,” he adds. “I’m not chasing up allocation from big corporate distributors. It’s not what we’re all about.”

With bottles ranging from $70 to $630, there’s something for guests on all ends of the spectrum, but as with the food menu, the team is committed to showcasing small, local producers wherever possible.

Omen
149 Victoria Avenue, Albert Park
9470 6905

Hours:
Wed to Sat 5.30pm–11pm
Sun midday–5pm

omenrestaurant.com