Last year, Adam Cruickshank and Megan Kwee opened Comma Food & Wine, a neighbourhood wine bar with excellent snacks, on Station Street in Moorabbin. But now they’ve opened a second, more casual (and more lockdown-appropriate) spot – Tuckshop by Comma – just around the corner on Tuck Street.
But that appropriateness is no mistake. It started out as a lockdown pop-up before getting its own dedicated, hole-in-the-wall shopfront. It’s serving Allpress coffee and zhooshed-up bagels inspired by the menus at Comma and the pair’s Prahran bagel shop, Crooked Letters.
“This is almost entirely a mashup of two of our existing venues,” says Cruickshank. “The bagels at Crooked Letters are all very honest. Meanwhile, these are all a bit more luxe.”
Take the Cape Grim hanger-steak bagel – a play on one of Comma’s signature dishes. Here, it comes stacked up with potato crisps, dill-pickle mayo and smoked scamorza (which is torched to serve).
There’s also a herby salmon-pastrami number that includes Ora King salmon coated in a pastrami rub, caper-and-dill schmear, bread-and-butter pickles, and red onion. Other bagel options include crisp satay tofu with grilled broccolini; bacon and egg with provolone, and – for something a little sweeter – an open bagel with blueberry schmear, topped with mint and freeze-dried mandarin.
“They’re all over the top,” says Cruickshank, adding that they’ve been particularly well received by those looking to level up their lockdown lunches. “You can’t go out to a lovely sit-down meal right now [so] if you’re gonna go grab a sandwich, you might as well push the boat out.”
Tuckshop looks and operates much like its name suggests: you queue up just like you would’ve at school. But this one’s probably a bit more contemporary, with a crisp white paint job and multi-tone green tiles. Behind a little roller door, it’s got just enough room for a green La Marzocco, a petite kitchen and very little else – so for now, it’s a strictly takeaway-only situation. However, Cruickshank and Kwee plan to add some outdoor dining options as soon as they’re able.
Tuckshop by Comma is takeaway-only during Melbourne’s lockdown.
Tuckshop by Comma
3 Tuck Street, Moorabbin
Melbourne is currently in lockdown. Masks are mandated in public spaces, public gatherings are banned and minimal social contact is recommended. If you have concerns about visiting businesses or public spaces, or questions about self-isolation or coronavirus testing, check out the latest updates from the Department of Health and Human Services.