Ishizuka is hard to find. But go through the secluded entrance and down the elevators to the basement-level restaurant off Bourke Street in the CBD, and you’ll be treated to a hyper-seasonal kaiseki.

The degustation-style, centuries-old Japanese meal “is about bringing out the purity of seasonal ingredients and expressing the beauty of Japan’s changing seasons”, says new Ishizuka executive chef Katsuji Yoshino.

Yoshino says kaiseki is “a Japanese art form practised by only the most skilled culinary experts”. At Ishizuka, 16 diners are walked through a menu the chef says “embodies creative understanding of local produce, with emphasis on the discovery of new flavours, refined techniques and artistic presentation … each refined plate allows guests to experience the beauty of nature”.

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We took five minutes with Yoshino to learn more about his food philosophy and his time working at Michelin-starred restaurants in France.

How did you get your start in food?
My culinary journey began watching my grandparents prepare grilled eel at their traditional unagi restaurant in Tokyo. During the summer holidays, my family would cook and enjoy this meal together – what remains a distinct and fond memory. This ultimately led me to pursue a career in the culinary world.

Did you always know you would be a chef?
Surrounded by my grandparents and brother who owned restaurants, I knew from a young age that I would enjoy working as a chef. After finishing school, I decided to study abroad in France, training at several renowned Michelin-star restaurants including Troisgros, Pierre Gagnaire, David Toutain and Le Grand Vefour. These experiences were what truly ignited my passion for cooking and the beauty of extracting the natural essence of ingredients.

What was the most important thing you learnt working in France?
The precision of culinary techniques and the respectful handling of ingredients. Working in Michelin-starred restaurants introduced me to a variety of new culinary techniques and traditions that enriched my understanding and appreciation of diverse food cultures.

What inspires your cooking?
The natural beauty of Japan, seasonal changes and cultural background profoundly influence my culinary ideas. As my mentor chef Pierre Gagnaire says, “Cooking is culture”. Each immersive course reflects regional Japanese specialties and conveys a sense of the season and the bounties of nature.

Which Australian ingredients do you enjoy using in Japanese cooking the most?
I have particularly enjoyed using fresh Australian seafood and citrus fruits to add refreshing elements to our menu. I have also enjoyed experimenting with local meats that I hadn’t previously worked with in Japan.

Is there a dish you’re particularly excited to add to the menu?
I’m especially excited about the wan (soup course) featured in our latest spring menu. Snow crab manju is wrapped in ribbons of spring vegetables – zucchini, carrot and capsicum in all its vibrant colours. The perfectly packaged parcel sits upon our signature clear soup of crab dashi, junsai and kuzu powder. This dish embraces the simplicity of the ingredients whilst focusing on the essence of the crab, utilising every part without waste.