Molli Didn’t Work. So Nathan Toleman’s Changing It Up

When Nathan Toleman’s Mulberry Group opened Molli at the end of June 2024, it was positioned as a neighbourhood bar and bistro with a technique-heavy yet approachable menu with dishes including pork neck skewers with date puree, fresh casarecce (pasta) with fermented tomato, and flatbread served with shallot custard.

But when Molli and the adjoining deli, cafe and provisions shop Little Molli didn’t gain traction, Toleman, who has opened 24 venues including Top Paddock, Hazel and Liminal, had to face a hard reality: sometimes you build it and they don’t come.

Rather than give up, Toleman and the team are flipping the script, and on Friday April 11, will relaunch Molli and Little Molli. The former will be a more relaxed day-to-night eatery and the latter a pantry and workshop space. Drinks pro Kayla Saito is staying on board, alongside new head chef Caitlin Koether, who was a sous-chef at Bar Tartine in San Francisco for two years, and did a stint at Relae in Copenhagen.

Success is often celebrated – but we don’t always talk about the missteps. We caught up with Toleman to find out why he’s changing Molli, and when he realised it wasn’t working.

Why did you decide to change the concept?
After more than 20 years of opening venues, this was the first time I’ve had to look at one of our own and say, “This isn’t working”. And it wasn’t for lack of effort. We had an incredibly talented opening chef in Aleksis [Kalnins], a beautiful fit-out, a great team and what I believed was a clear vision. But something didn’t land. The feedback from our community was consistent – they were looking for something more relaxed, more accessible, something that just felt right for Abbotsford. So rather than push harder in the wrong direction, we chose to listen – and pivot. Sometimes venues take on a life of their own. Molli told us what it wanted to be and we listened.

How far into the opening did you realise you’d need to change things up?
Pretty early on. Within the first few months, we weren’t seeing the kind of repeat trade we rely on – people we trust, people who love what we do. I remember someone saying, “I liked it, but I didn’t love it”, and that really stuck with me. It’s not always easy to hear that kind of feedback, but it was honest, and it gave us permission to pause, reflect, realign – and go again. We’ve embraced the idea that you don’t always get it right the first time – what matters is how you respond.

What was the brief for this new iteration of Molli?
This time the brief was simple: make it generous, warm, relaxed and everyday. We wanted to create a place where people could drop in for a quick coffee, a midweek dinner, or a lazy weekend lunch and feel completely at home. No pressure, no pretence. Confident but not showy. Honest food, thoughtful drinks, and a space that feels genuinely good to be in. We’re not afraid to tear up the script if it means delivering something better for our community.

How does the new iteration reflect the neighbourhood?
Abbotsford is casual but creative – there’s a sense of community and a love of craft here. Caitlin’s food mirrors that energy perfectly. It’s not trying to be fancy or overthought. It’s just good food made with great produce and a lot of care. Molli will be the kind of place where you can drop in for a quick breakfast, a long lunch, a wine and a snack after work – it doesn’t need to be a big night out. It’s more lived-in now, more real.

What can people expect from the food now that Caitlin’s leading the kitchen?
Food that’s packed with flavour, texture, colour – food that surprises you but also makes you feel at home. There’s a smoked tomato tart with house-made crème fraîche that’s like eating a garden in peak summer. Her koji roast chicken will surely become a signature – crispy, deeply savoury and served with a side of perfectly tangy fermented greens. And the pantry next door is full of her creations: house-made preserves, miso butters, fermented chilli sauces. It’s like stepping into her mind, in the best possible way.

What can people expect from the workshops in the new dedicated space?
Expect to get your hands dirty in the best way possible. These aren’t demos, they’re proper deep dives into fermentation, pickling, seasonal cooking, preserving and pantry-building. Caitlin wants to share her knowledge, not just showcase it. And that space is going to become a hub for creativity – it’s about community, connection, and celebrating food at its most real and nourishing.

What do you admire about Caitlin’s approach to the venue’s evolution?
There’s this effortless generosity in the way she cooks, every dish feels like it’s been made with care and intention. Molli doesn’t feel like a relaunch, it feels like it’s grown into what it was always meant to be.

Why did you decide to share publicly that the first iteration didn’t hit the mark?
Because it’s the truth. And honestly, I think there’s real strength in owning it. I’m proud of the original vision, but I’m even prouder of how we’ve responded. Hospitality is a constant process of learning and evolving. And the market we signed the lease in two years ago doesn’t exist anymore, so we adapted. We simply listened, reflected and made something better. Molli is a better venue now because of that process. Great venues are built on honesty.