Where Chefs Eat: Yiaga’s Head Chef Knows Where To Find the Best Soup Dumplings in Town

If you dine at Hugh Allen’s Hot Listed fine diner Yiaga, chances are you’ll find head chef Michael McAulay running the pass. The Scottish chef first crossed paths with Allen when they were both working at Noma. He then moved to Melbourne to work as a sous-chef at Vue de Monde, where Allen remains executive chef. We caught up with the ambitious young chef to find out where (and what) he’s been eating in Melbourne lately.

Favourite bakery
“Has to be Butter Days in Malvern. John [Demetrios]’s pastries are incredible. Every time I’ve been there are always loads of new things to try as well as a solid foundation of delicious staples. The BMO [bolle med ost, a Danish roll with cheese] is incredibly nostalgic for me, and the pastrami danish is probably my favourite baked good ever.”

Go-to breakfast spot
“I’m not much of a breakfast person and if I am, it’s usually at home. However, if I’m there early enough I can’t look past the sausage, egg and cheese at Hector’s Deli. I also think it’s worth going to their bakery in Richmond as the pastries are very underrated.”

Best place for a drink and snacks
“Without sounding like a philistine, can I say a pub? I spend most of my drinking time in Goldy’s Tavern in Collingwood or The Standard in Fitzroy.”

Date-night recommendation
“Cordelia in Carlton. Josh Norris cooks some of the most delicious and concise food in Melbourne in a beautifully designed intimate dining room. The playlist is always amazing and the bar they have tucked away downstairs is one-of-a-kind in the city – it feels like you’re on a sexy Scandinavian boat. After dinner, you can stop by Bar Bellamy down the street for a nightcap.”

Favourite ice-cream or gelato spot
“I guess I’m somewhat of a traditionalist when it comes to ice-cream. If I’m in the city, I’ll always go to Piccolina and I’ll always order one scoop of pistachio. Special mention to Luther’s Scoops. Their ice-creams are incredibly original and extremely delicious. They need to open up south of the river.”

Best banh mi
“Luke’s Banh Mi and it’s not even close. The shop in Moonee Ponds is an exceptional sandwich, worth a special journey. Now I’m lucky enough to be walking distance from their shop on Clarendon Street. The Luke’s favourite with the crispy pork and beef in betel leaf is a game changer. Try and get there before 12 though, as it gets hectic.”

Best place to eat with a big group
“The Pontian Club on Smith Street. The team there have found this incredible niche between feeling like a family-run restaurant that’s been there forever, whilst also having food that is both homely and comforting, but progressive in flavour and execution. The first time I went was in a group of eight, and we ate and drank until we couldn’t eat or drink and spent under $100 a head, which is very difficult to do. We’re going back as a party of 30 for my girlfriend’s birthday and I cannot wait.”

Favourite dessert
“The chocolate soufflé at Vue de Monde is the best soufflé in the world.”

Best place to eat as a solo diner
“Zareh. I could quite happily sit ringside along their kitchen counter watching the team work their magic. The food is incredible and something I think Melbourne was missing. It reminds me a lot of Kiln in Soho, not in flavour but in vibes.”

Best place for a late-night feed
“I love a late dinner reservation at France-Soir. The atmosphere on any given night is perfect, great for a date or a large group. Classic French food done well with service that is charismatic and sincere.”

Best bread
“Austin’s Ambrosia is making the best sourdough bread and pizzas in the country! Postmodern flavour combinations with highly technical dough. The only downside is he’s doing it in Geelong. Come back to Melbourne, Austin, we miss you.”

Restaurant you wish could come back for a night
“Robbie Noble’s residency Cherrywood just finished up and I can’t wait to eat his food again wherever he ends up next. Very technical, yet stripped back cooking, the type of food I love to eat.”

Venue you’ve visited the most over the years
“Belles Hot Chicken by a country mile. I first tried a Belles’ chicken sandwich when Morgy [McGlone] did a pop-up in Copenhagen, and Belles was the first place I ate when I moved to Melbourne. Perfect way to exorcise a hangover from hell. Good chicken, good beer, amazing tunes. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve been.”

Most underrated restaurant
“Shanghai Street. I’m always amazed by how many of my Aussie friends have never been. They have the best xiaolongbao in the city made by hand every day. The speed that their chefs possess intimidates me.”

Favourite regional restaurant
“There are loads of amazing restaurants outside of Melbourne that I have yet to try. However, my visit to Bar Merenda was excellent. Very warm service and tasty food.”

Bucket list restaurant
“Addison in San Diego. It has one of the most outrageous dining rooms in the world with luxurious food to match.”