It’s the same room but a world away from where it once was. Gabriel Martin, French chef who most recently was at The French Brasserie and before that owned Essendon’s Maisonette, has opened his new restaurant in the Brunswick’s old Metropolis Ballroom. He has simply renamed it Metropolis Eating House.

All very unassuming outside, walk up the stairs to an enormous vault of a room that houses stained-glass domes in the ceiling, chandeliers, a vintage mix of tables and chairs. The new addition of Catherine Martin wallpaper that Martin and his business partner - owner of Aux Batifolles, Stephane Pettier - had custom-made for the grand space.

The history behind this room is rich, Martin recalls its history as far back as the 60s, but believes it’s been around much longer than that. “In the 60s it was a dining room, the 80s a nightclub and bar and it has been a reception centre since the early 90s until now,” he comments.

Now in its new incarnation, Martin has created a menu that means you can have classic entree, main and dessert, order half-portions of dishes to share, or request the ‘Feed Me’ menu, where for $62 Martin will feed you four-courses of his choosing. Just let him know any dietary requirements.

Sunday lunches are aimed at families, with the chef channeling his upbringing in the Loire Valley, to serve a simple three-course lunch for only $42. A recent menu included a seafood casserole, duck leg with cabbage and creme caramel.

Use Metropolis just for a drink, for a snack or for an extravaganza. The service, while friendly could use a bit of vamping up, but this is a solid start for an exciting venture.

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Metropolis Eating House
314 Sydney Rd, Brunswick
(03) 9388 8730

Wed-Sun noon-3pm; 5.30pm-late