Menu Reveal: Four Dishes to Try at the Access x Nat Thaipun Takeover at Boon Choou

Nat Thaipun has been hustling hard since winning last year’s season of Masterchef. The Melbourne-based cook – also known as Natty Wolf – worked under Jamie Oliver in London and hosted pop-ups at venues such as Hot-Listed Baba’s Place in Sydney and two-Michelin-starred Evett in Seoul.

Somehow, she also found time to write her debut cookbook, Thai: Anywhere and Everywhere, which hit shelves this October. Packed with approachable Thai recipes built for all occasions – from intimate dinners to lively barbeques and everything in between – the title is already a bona fide Amazon bestseller.

Before the year is out, Thaipun has one more job on her to-do list: a kitchen takeover at Boon Choou, the hot newcomer to Melbourne’s Thai food scene from three alums of beloved Sydney institution Chat Thai.

As always, Broadsheet Access lays on exclusive events for members with our Readers’ Preview series – and this is the last for 2025. On December 10, members will attend the one-off pop-up and enjoy dishes inspired by the book, plus a special Thai gimlet on entry,

Tickets for the event are now sold out, but we hold Melbourne Readers’ Previews regularly, so there will be plenty more venues and menus to explore in future. To be in the know for upcoming events, join Broadsheet Access now.

Meanwhile, here’s a sneak peek at some of the dishes on the takeover menu, as described by Nat Thaipun herself.

Freshly shucked oysters, tom kha sauce, finger lime, makrut lime oil

“This dish riffs on tom kha, a soup that has always been about balancing aromatics with whatever protein is on hand – traditionally chicken, but in coastal areas often seafood. Using freshly shucked oysters nods to that fluid tradition, taking a familiar Thai flavour and letting the local environment dictate the hero ingredient. Plus, oysters and a refreshing citrusy white sauce is insanely good. Finger lime adds a distinctly Australian brightness, turning a classic into something that could only exist in Naarm.”

Kangaroo larb tartare, pepper berry, sesame rice cracker

“Larb is one of the most adaptable dishes in the Thai repertoire – whatever meat or fish is freshest becomes larb. Using kangaroo continues that lineage of adaptability while celebrating a truly Australian ingredient, and its lean, mineral quality works beautifully with the acidity and toasted rice notes of larb. Pepper berry steps in where Thai spices traditionally would, giving the dish a familiar heat, but a uniquely Australian finish.”

Sai oua (northern Thai pork sausage) with mountain pepper, served with nam prig noom

“Sai oua is a deeply regional dish from Chiang Mai: spicy, herb-packed, and built from the flavours of the surrounding hills. Here, mountain pepper stands in for the wild aromatics of northern Thailand, proving that the soul of the sausage isn’t in rigid authenticity but in using what grows around you. Paired with nam prig noom, the entire plate becomes a conversation between Thai mountain cuisine and Australian bush ingredients.”

Nueu wagyu ping (wagyu beef skewers) with nam jim jaew and Illawarra plum

“Grilled skewers are street staples across Thailand, prized for their simplicity: it’s just good meat, charcoal and a punchy dipping sauce. This version elevates that spirit with Australian wagyu and a nam jim jaew brightened by Illawarra plum, whose tartness echoes the tamarind of the original while adding a layer of native complexity. It’s a perfect example of how Thai flavours adapt effortlessly when put in dialogue with local produce.”

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