Ross and Sunny Lusted are the couple behind The Bridge Room, a lauded Sydney fine diner that closed in 2020, and Woodcut, a high-concept restaurant at Crown Sydney where four kitchens represent steam, fire, smoke and ice. As former managers for Aman Resorts, the seasoned restaurateurs have lived and worked in cities around the world. But they knew Melbourne would be the best place to open Marmelo and Mr Mills.

Marmelo (Portuguese for “quince”) is a sprawling restaurant overlooking Russell Street, while Mr Mills is a moody basement sibling with a distinct identity. Both draw influence from the Iberian Peninsula, a region the Lusteds believe mirrors the venues’ home city.

“Melbourne is a very market-centric city. It feels very European,” says Ross. “We thought it was the perfect opportunity to do Marmelo.

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“Melbourne people love to dine out, and they love to use a space as they want, without being dictated to.” At Marmelo, this translates into flexibility: dine at the chef’s table overlooking the kitchen, book the main dining room, or grab a seat at the bar for a more casual experience.

The menu reflects extensive research into Portuguese culinary traditions, tracing the country’s influence across its former colonies – from Macau to Southern India and Ross’s native South Africa. Tying it all together is a deep respect for Victorian produce, which Ross says parallels Portuguese ingredients.

“The produce that we have in Victoria is unique,” says Ross. “But the waters are deep and cold, a lot like the Atlantic, so a lot of the fish species you see are quite similar.”

Take the Murray cod. It’s native to Australia but reminiscent of the cod used in Portuguese bacalhau (a salted cod stew). At Marmelo, Murray cod is salt-cured in a traditional preservation style and served in mussel butter with chourico (pork sausage), tomato refogado (roasted tomato sauce) and potatoes. On the salgados (salty snacks) menu, the cod appears again as a croquette, alongside bites like buttered anchovies imported from northern Spain, close to the Portuguese border.

Portuguese cuisine extends far beyond chargrilled chicken and pasteis de nata – but you will find variations of both on the menu. Spice-rubbed, wood-roasted cockerel is served with fried potatoes, while the custard tarts are prepared in a traditional style and dusted with cinnamon.

Mitchell & Eades, the firm behind Grill Americano and Beverley, designed the space to fuse the spirit of Portugal and Melbourne with azulejos (traditional hand-painted tiles), warm wooden accents and Portuguese-inspired art by local artists Ben Mazey and Lucy Roleff.

“You walk down the cobblestone streets of Lisbon and there are these little art shops where you’d find a 200-year-old painting in a gilded frame,” Ross says. “It feels like a little bit of that.”

There’s also a glass wine cellar in the centre of the dining room housing lesser-known Iberian producers. Down the chartreuse staircase – or via a separate entrance off Melbourne Place – lies Mr Mills, an extension of Marmelo, but a destination itself. Here, the focus shifts to Spanish snacks, cocktails like a tomato and anchovy oil Martini, and a supper menu that channels Spain’s late-night dining culture with Gildas and mackerel escabeche.

Together, the two venues offer a flexible, layered dining experience that reflects the Lusteds’ passion for both Melbourne and the Iberian Peninsula.

“Hopefully in our small way, we can contribute to what’s available in Melbourne and along the way, showcase a little bit about the history of Portugal.”

Marmelo and Mr Mills
No.130 Russell St, Melbourne

Marmelo
Hours:
Tue to Sat midday–3pm; 5.30pm–9.30pm; 10pm–11pm
03 7035 2999

marmelorestaurant.com.au

Mr Mills
Hours:
Tue to Thur 5pm–late
Fri & Sat 4pm–late

03 7035 2998
mrmillsbar.com.au