Andrew McConnell Thinks Marion Still Feels “Fresh as a Daisy” 10 Years After Opening

In 2015, as part of Broadsheet’s annual recap of the year, we named Andrew McConnell and partner Jo McGann’s Marion one of the city’s most exciting new restaurant openings. “It operates so smoothly and with such warmth, it feels like it’s been there for 10 years already,” we wrote.

Now, that new Gertrude Street wine bar with the confidence and competence of a decade-old institution has actually been there for 10 years. And it feels like it hasn’t aged since day one. Two weeks ago, at Broadsheet’s inaugural awards night, Marion yet again played a crucial role in our-end-of-year celebration – this time as an inductee of the Ten-Year Club, one of the evening’s central awards.

Alongside The Builders Arms Hotel, Marion is one of the most approachable of McConnell’s Trader House stable of venues. For McConnell, the site has also been the most adaptable. Over the years, the space has hosted everything from Trader House’s office and changing room to the first iterations of what would go on to become Supernormal and Morning Market. We’re glad it became Marion, though.

Even though it’s difficult to assess a venue’s legacy while it’s still in its prime, Marion’s impact on the city is already clear. It didn’t invent the Melbourne wine bar, but it’s come as close as any venue to defining it.

Broadsheet spoke with McConnell on the eve of Marion’s 10th birthday, to look back on the self-assured wine bar that felt old when it was new and feels new now that it’s old.

How did Marion start?

We had access to the site a few years before it opened, 13 or 14 years ago. It was our office and then it was a changing room – that little room where the entrance is. Then, next door became available so we could move our office upstairs. We used the space for pop-ups, then we used it for Supernormal and we gradually decided to open the wine bar, Marion, next door to Cutler [then called Cutler & Co]. It’s been very gradual and organic. Part of the charm and why it did land so well was because it wasn’t rushed, it wasn’t forced. We took our time.

At what point did you decide that the space would be a good fit for a wine bar?

We knew straightaway the space and location would lend itself to something local and casual and relaxed. We’d developed such a great wine culture at Cutler that there was room for us to expand and create access to that cellar and create a great wine destination that didn’t come with all the bells and whistles. So the result was Marion. A bit more relaxed, more accessible and more of a neighbourhood vibe.

In its very early days, Marion felt defined by its older neighbour Cutler. How has that relationship evolved?

I never wanted to detract from Cutler by opening a wine bar next door. But just by way of relationship, it ends up being a sister restaurant because it’s owned by the same people. However, I don’t think Marion’s ever felt like a side-hustle or a “sidekick.” It very quickly developed its own identity, without having to lean on Cutler for marketing, or support, or goodwill. It very quickly discovered itself, which for me is a great achievement. I say Cutler’s the kind of place that people get an Uber to, and Marion’s the kind of place that everyone walks to; it’s local. That’s what I think differentiates the two businesses – how people use it.

Today, Marion is considered an archetypal “Melbourne” wine bar. Did you look to Melbourne or elsewhere for inspiration for it?

We didn’t really look elsewhere. It’s got European roots, which comes down to the nature of the wine list and the style of cooking and food. We wanted a great wine list with plenty of personality and a simple menu that would support that. A lot of Marion’s direction came as a response to how my wife Jo [McGann] and I like to eat and drink when we go out. When we’re not at work, we really enjoy the more relaxed nature and casual dining of a wine bar and how that experience unfolds as opposed to entrée, main, dessert – more of a spontaneous experience than a formal progression.

That simple menu has changed very little in structure over the years.

That’s what I like about it. It’s short and small – 15 items, one page. I think the fact that we haven’t really felt the need or the urge to change too much about the fit-out or food and the menu structure means that I feel that we got it pretty much right.

Do you have a favourite dish from the last 10 years?

I can’t answer – there are too many. A lot have come and gone, but many have stuck around. People love the flatbread. The mussel salad has been on for 10 years. There’s a few things, but I think it’s the sum of all its parts, Marion, it’s not one particular thing. And that’s what connects us to so many people. There’s something for everyone in that space to connect to. I think it’s approachable and unpretentious and for that reason it fits like a glove for some people.

Marion still feels contemporary in a way that many restaurants of a similar age don’t. How did you achieve that?

That was very much our intent. You don’t want to have to renovate and redesign your restaurant every five to 10 years. Unfortunately we’re pretty anchored to fashion in our industry, and things come and go and people’s tastes change. A big part of the brief to Iva at IF [Architecture] was to create something that had longevity, that wasn’t on trend, that was grounded and authentic. And she did a really great job. I’m just as happy walking in there today, being in that space, as I was 10 years ago.

Does Marion feel 10 years old to you?

Some days yes, and some days no. But in my head, how I feel now, mentally about the business, no. Not at all. It still feels fresh as a daisy, and it’s just as inspiring being there. And part of that comes from how people use it. And I think it’s quite lovely that people of all ages come and enjoy it. And one of the other nice things about having a restaurant that does span a decade or more is that you do get to know customers, you do have regular guests that become friends, you do get to meet their family, and you are part of their landmark celebrations. Being part of someone’s 40th and then 10 years later being part of their 50th is really cool.

Is there anyone you’d like to acknowledge in particular as part of the story of Marion?

Our team now, our star team. At the pans now is Davy Dai, he’s been cooking with us there for many years and is a beautiful cook. And Daniel Richardson, who’s our restaurant manager there now, too. Jo was really intrinsic in creating that footprint for Marion and what it is now. I should acknowledge Andy Joy, who was our opening manager, and also our opening chef Allan Eccles. Two really talented people who’ve both gone on to do incredible things. And a big part of the backbone of Marion has been our beverage team, headed by Leanne Altman and Liam O’Brien. And then there’s been Chris Handel, who’s helped bring it all together as [Trader House’s] GM. He’s been with us for well and truly over 10 years.

How do you feel about Marion’s legacy after 10 years?

I don’t think too much about it. I just really am thankful that we’re still here and that people still really enjoy it. It’s a really nice sense of achievement to be able to create something that’s lasted this long. It’s difficult to run restaurants in any city, let alone one that’s as competitive as Melbourne. I don’t look too far ahead in this industry, and I don’t take anything for granted either. If we’re still here in 10 years’ time, I’ll be well and truly chuffed.

The Hot List is proudly sponsored by Square.